Dyeing for the future: Reviving an ancient blue in rural China

In a modest courtyard in Lizu village, east China's Zhejiang province, an indigo-blue horse quietly bridged two continents last November. Lou Shamoshuang, a young Chinese designer, presented a tie-dyed ornament to the head of a Mozambican delegation and explained its significance in fluent English. "In Chinese culture, the horse stands for drive and progress. This piece is called Mashang You Qian. It is a beautiful wish that the person soon becomes successful and prosperous." The delegation leader nodded with a smile and purchased the ornament.

This short cross-cultural transaction was not just a sale but a thread connecting distant worlds. Behind it stands 34-year-old Lou, a designer on a mission to revive not just the fading blue of a 400-year-old craft, but to reweave a sustainable way of life where deep tradition meets contemporary purpose.

Lou's journey began in 2018 in Dali, Yunnan province, where she stumbled upon a century-old dye workshop whose fires were about to be extinguished forever. The sight stirred something in her beyond appreciation for its beauty. "Why would something so beautiful be abandoned?" she asked the elderly artisans. Their answer was a resigned sigh. "No future in it," one said. "Too much toil, too little reward, and no one remembers."

It's a familiar dirge for intangible cultural heritage worldwide. But Lou moved beyond lamentation. She began documenting the dyeing process and, acting as a bridge, started selling fabrics from these remote workshops to friends via social media.

To her surprise, orders began to trickle in. "It showed there was a demand for such pieces of work," Lou recalled. "The problem was the disconnect. The producers of those fabrics and those who would cherish their work were worlds apart."

But the spark of validation had ignited her path. In late 2018, she returned to her hometown, Yiwu, and set up the Desert Dye House in a rented courtyard in Lizu village on the city's outskirts. There were two reasons for the choice. "Nestled in the hills away from the city's clamor, Lizu offered the quiet rhythm that handcrafts need to breathe," she explained. Equally crucial was practical support: Lizu, benefiting from Zhejiang's "Green Rural Revival Program", offered a five-year lease with three years rent-free for young entrepreneurs, significantly lowering the barrier to start, she added.

Translating this ancient craft into a modern context was a formidable task. Her first hurdle was mastering the technique. Following a brief apprenticeship in rural Sichuan, the real learning came through relentless self-directed experimentation. "It was a cycle of trial, error, and starting over," she said.

Initially, the dye house was her laboratory. She experimented with indigo, sappanwood, even onion skins. As more visitors arrived, she observed that "tie-dye" was the term that resonated. She pivoted accordingly, focusing on tie-dye workshops and creating cultural products around this accessible entry point.

"Tie-dye is the art of resisting dye by binding fabric," she explained, her eyes alight as she demonstrated a simple fold and bind technique. Through precise knots and dips in vats of dye, unique patterns emerge — a process that can take 30 minutes for a simple scarf, or days for a complex piece.

"The breakthrough came in 2023, the Year of the Rabbit, with a sachet named 'Boundless Prospects," she said, adding that its success led to significant growth.

Lou formed a core team of nine locals — from digital-native Gen-Zers to women in their seventies with a lifetime of needlework skill — deploying their distinct strengths.

In Yiwu, a metropolis built on mass production, Lou's workshop became a distinctive model of common prosperity. By outsourcing intricate embroidery and sewing for zodiac-themed products, she has created supplementary income for over 20 women in Lizu, boosting their earnings by an average of 4,000 yuan ($570) per month.

Yet for Lou, economic impact is but one aspect of the endeavor. At the core is the cultural transmission. She has tirelessly evangelized the craft in Yiwu, giving free talks at community centers to build awareness from the ground up.

"I am particularly proud of the partnership with my alma mater, Yiwu No 3 High School," Lou said. There, she has helped set up a dedicated plant-dyeing studio and lectured to audiences of 800 students.

"When students win awards for their tie-dye work," Lou said, "it's the strongest proof that this isn't a relic — it's a living language, and they're learning to speak it."

For Lou, the value of plant-dyeing is profoundly ecological. "The fashion industry's dyeing processes are a leading global polluter of waterways," she said. "The relentless cycle of fast fashion — constant dyeing and washing, especially for denim — exacts a huge environmental cost."

In contrast, plant dyes utilize indigo, sappanwood, and other botanicals, offering a sustainable alternative. "I was struck by the inherent ecological aspect of this method from the start," Lou said. "This isn't just a technique; it's ancestral wisdom for living in balance with nature."

Recognition has attracted a diverse stream of visitors, from former United Nations Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon to celebrated performers and athletes. Lou believes they are drawn by the unique ecosystem of creators cultivated in Lizu village.

Near the "common prosperity square," dozens of complementary businesses-from tie-dye workshops and pastry shops to cafes run by young entrepreneurs — form a collective hub. "We each focus on our own craft," Lou says, "but together, we're not selling a pre-existing view. We're building a new experience — that's the Zhejiang spirit of creating something from nothing."

Lou's journey — from high-end fashion designer to guardian of a rural dye house — is uncommon. Yet for her, it's the most natural fit. "This doesn't feel like work," she said. "It feels like purpose." In reviving an ancient palette, she is helping to dye a vibrant, sustainable future for the rural fabric of China.

zhaojia@chinadaily.com.cn