Designer uses paper, brocade in one fashion show

Yunjin brocade, a precious and labor-intensive fabric, highlighted the second segment of Hu’s JIN series, which the designer collaborated with Ci Jin, a high-end weaving art brand that sponsored the fabric for the series.

For the series, Hu borrowed inspiration from the character traits of the 12 Beauties of Jinling as depicted in the classic Chinese opus Dream of the Red Chamber and the ancient royal clothing of both China and Europe.

The audience was swept away as supermodels strutted the catwalk, presenting 19 majestic haute couture gowns made of yunjin brocade, which the designer claimed was worth about 10 million yuan ($1.40 million).

Yun means clouds and jin means brocade. Brocade is often described in ancient Chinese texts as a kind of silk fabric that contains gold. Among the best-known Chinese brocades, yunjin brocade from Nanjing, Jiangsu province, takes its name from its gorgeous, rosy cloud-like color.

A luxurious textile, yunjin brocade is distinguished by the incorporation of gold and silver thread and peacock feather filaments. It was used by the imperial family during the Yuan (1271-1368), Ming (1368-1644), and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties, with patterns such as dragons, phoenixes, river cliffs, and water that reflect imperial culture.

According to Ci Jin, the intricate craftsmanship of yunjin brocade is such that a pair of skilled weavers collaborating over the span of a day is only able to produce 5 to 6 centimeters of the luxurious fabric.

In 2009, the craftsmanship of Nanjing yunjin brocade was included on the UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list.