Xuanwei ham fuels modern prosperity

Editor's Note: Using a blend of words and visuals, this series explores unique communities and reveals the heart of China through food, architecture, craftsmanship, landscapes and traditions.

Every year, from Frost's Descent through the Beginning of Spring, farmers and factories in Xuanwei city, Southwest China's Yunnan province, enter their busiest season curing hams.

What began as a household ritual tied to the farming calendar has evolved into a culinary treasure and a pillar of local economic growth.

Xuanwei ham, one of China's three most renowned varieties alongside Jinhua in Zhejiang province and Rugao in Jiangsu province, boasts nearly a millennium of tradition. With distinct ingredients, techniques, and climate, it blends ancient craftsmanship with modern industry. Its making follows a meticulous process. Producers select hind legs from the indigenous Wujin pigs, which are then cured through a meticulous process of salting, stacking, pressing, and drying.

The hams ferment naturally through the region's unique highland climate — mild winters, cool summers and sharp day-night temperature difference — and are not considered mature until the following Mid-Autumn Festival.

The result is a ham unlike any other. Larger and lighter in aroma than its counterparts, Xuanwei ham reveals rose-red lean meat, ivory-white fat, and bones tinged pink. Its balance of fragrance, tenderness, and savory richness has earned it fame at home and abroad.

On the table, the hams prove endlessly adaptable. "It pairs with almost anything," said Yan Cheng, a master chef in Yunnan.

Stir-fried, it is chewy and aromatic; steamed, it turns soft and mild; boiled or stewed, it enriches the flavor of dishes. From crossing-the-bridge noodles to local cheese dishes, the ham is indispensable.

That versatility may explain why in 1923, Sun Yat-sen, founding father of the Republic of China (1912-49), honored the product for its harmony in food and virtue. For locals, the ham balances salt and meat in the curing process and blends the culinary tradition with innovation.

What was once a seasonal craft is now a thriving industry. Xuanwei is home to 32 certified ham producers, supported by national testing centers and research teams. In 2024, output reached around 70,000 metric tons, generating 11.5 billion yuan ($1.6 billion). The ham accounts for more than one-third of China's total ham market, cementing its place as both a cultural symbol and an economic engine.

Sales channels are expanding quickly. Livestreaming and e-commerce have expanded domestic reach, while trade fairs boost brand visibility. Exports are also on the rise. In the first half of 2025, a local company shipped nearly 4,500 kilograms of ham to Hong Kong, earning more than $130,000. Producers are moving beyond tradition with more than 100 new products, from black-pig luncheon meat to ham pastries.

At the same time, the ham has become a magnet for tourism and agriculture. Newly built ham-themed resorts have attracted over 240,000 visitors, while a national agricultural park is expected to benefit nearly 90,000 residents across 17 townships.

From local curing sheds to global dining tables, Xuanwei ham shows how a humble ingredient can fuel modern prosperity. It remains a taste of history and a key to rural vitalization and proves that with patience, craft, and innovation, tradition can nourish the future.

Contact the writers at guoyanqi@chinadaily.com.cn