No wonder those naked monkeys look relaxed

[Picture by Li Feng/ China Daily]

Dipping in Japanese hot springs opens the pores and the eyes.

A picture of three snow monkeys, those fascinating creatures that have bright red faces and look as though they could do with a haircut, was vivid in my mind when I and two friends suggested we visit Hakone, the hot spring town 85 kilometers southeast of Tokyo.

Leaving fascination aside, the first thing to consider about this destination, from which you get a spectacular view of the revered Mount Fuji, is the dress code. When I reminded my friends not to forget to pack their swimming suits, they mocked me gently, saying that onsen culture dictates that you wear the bare minimum－the emphasis being on the word bare. "What? Do you mean naked?" I asked nervously. At the last minute, wanting to cover all eventualities, I put my swimsuit in my suitcase before we left for Tokyo.

The geological features that give Japan its most fearsome aspect－its tendency to be shaken by earthquakes－also provide it with a rich source of thermal water, and for centuries animals and humans have enjoyed soaking in its springs. As for Hakone, it provides some wonderful lessons in a very different culture relating to bathing.

The etiquette in all of this is quite different to that of China, the traditional onsen usually being shared by men and women, even those who are strangers to one another. Nevertheless, separate baths have apparently become more common in Hakone, too. Fortunately for us three, who regard ourselves as traditional Chinese women, what we had was a separate bath.

On a drizzly morning we arrived at the Green Plaza Hotel, a 35-minute drive from downtown Hakone, where we would be staying for two nights. We chose it because from its outdoor pool you can admire Fuji-san.

Its snow-capped peaks, the onsen, and the beauty of Hakone's natural surroundings make the area one of the country's top tourist attractions.

After an afternoon trekking around Lake Ashinoko we enjoyed a sumptuous dinner before preparing for our first onsen experience.

A hotel guide briefed visitors on the etiquette of bathing, the main points of which were wearing a kimono before entering changing rooms, having no cameras and being equipped with a smallish towel.

To avoid the embarrassment of seeing each other we three took off our gowns as quickly as possible and entered the bath area.

What I saw first was four fleshy backs coated in the steamy air. Each of us sat on a small plastic stool washing carefully. There was quite a large pool next to the showering area, and two people were soaking in it.