Hanging on to the past

Yongfu Temple

But a two-night stay at Amanfayun during tea-harvesting season proved a refreshing reminder of how the authorities, and Ms Pang, are safeguarding their cultural heritage in this osmanthus-scented city of 8 million, one of seven ancient Chinese capitals.

The resort is modeled on the grounds of Fayun Nong, a 200-year-old village where residents once used the indigenous plants as medicine, or smashed the leaves to make shampoo. The best of the neighboring temples are separated by only a wooden gate and sentry post.

One groundskeeper pointed to a "seven-leaved" tree that only grows in the best of climates. "The plants here also relate to Buddhism, especially the theme of purification," he said. Fittingly, Aman is the Sanskrit word for "peace".

Laundry was done in the stream that runs through the resort as rock-carved Buddhist statues gazed penitently on from the far bank. Nowadays, the whole vibe is one of a Buddhist fairy tale. The days start with birds' chirping and end with temple gongs.

It took nine years for the government to relocate the 600 villagers from Fayun Nong, some of whom still pick and roast Longjing tea from the neighboring hills.

"Once their green tea became famous and expensive, the villagers started renovating their houses, which meant they were losing their original character," said Thailand's Vaipanya Kongkwanyuen, the resort's general manager.

"Some scrapped the whole house. Some changed the wood to cement, or added tiles and mosaics. So the Hangzhou government cleverly decided to keep the scenic area as it used to be. They began restoring the whole village and moved the people out."

Now Vaipanya's biggest problem is the yellow bees that bore holes in the elm-wood exteriors of the 47 dwellings. Each was designed by Jaya Ibrahim and is uniquely laid out as it follows the original housing structure. The stone floors and four-poster bed.