Arabian nights and days

After strolling through the main arteries of Rue Mohammed el Qorry and Avenue de L'Istiqlal, the pungent aroma of charcoal-grilled fish reminded us that it was lunchtime. We selected some squid, sea bream and sardines; after haggling with the vendor, we chose an outdoor table to enjoy the sea view. Our seafood was served grilled with a sprinkling of salt and served with a tomato salad that enhanced its smoky freshness.

Back within the medina walls, we climbed up the North Bastion for a panoramic view of the sea from the ancient fortress. Along nearby rue de la Skala, there were numerous shops selling woodcarvings and marquetry. The craftsmen used mostly thuya, an aromatic local conifer similar to mahogany. I found a beautiful box carved with simplified zellijs (geometrical mosaics characterised for the Moroccan architecture) for a friend's birthday gift, and expertly negotiated a satisfactory price with the shop owner.

A tea break on the roof terrace of the aptly named Chaabi Chic cafe in the Mellah, or Jewish quarter, gave us just enough energy to explore Essaouira's souk. Located along Avenue Mohammed Zerktouni, its colorful cones of olives gave way to fresh carcasses of beef, and fish still twitching after being out of water for mere minutes. At a sweets stall, I picked up some honeyed almonds to try－almonds are a Moroccan must.

Back and reclining in the dining lounge of AnaYela, we toasted to a perfect beachside day as we sipped our Meknes wine and tucked into pastilla, chicken tagine and couscous beside a roaring fire. And then we toasted Morocco for exceeding our expectations.

IF YOU GO

Swiss Air offers daily flights from Beijing to Marrakech via Zurich.

Stay Awhile

AnaYela

A lovingly restored five-room riad DesignHotel in Marrakech's medina, AnaYela is all about the romance inspired by Yela, a young girl who left a manuscript in the house. Her story is etched into the metallic panels running throughout the property, and in thoughtful details, such as leather slippers and homemade jams at breakfast.

www.designhotels.com/hotels/morocco/marrakech/anayela

Zaouia 44

The seven-room riad was restored by its French owner to be a tranquil haven set within Marrakech's busy medina. Contemporary elegance is reflected in its sealed gray concrete floors and walls, lush central rose garden with a reflecting pool, simply furnished rooms and shaded rooftop terrace.

www.zaouia44.com

Heure Bleue

A 33-room Relais & Chateaux property just inside Bab Marrakech in Essaouira, its luxuriously appointed interiors and relaxed vibe make it a welcome retreat after a day of seaside activities. It features several places to dine, including a Moroccan restaurant and English salon, hamman, billiards room and rooftop pool.

www.heure-bleue.com