An urban romance

Dulcet sounds of 'Drum Wave Islet'

A trip to Xiamen is not complete without a stopover at Gulangyu.

Thinking of it, a stopover is not enough. The best way to see this 1.87-sq-km island is to stay a day or two and absorb the sights and sounds of this little gem on the crown that is the coastal city of Xiamen.

Gulangyu is sandwiched between the city proper and the peninsula of Haicang district. And it takes only five minutes by ferry to reach. (The fare is 8 yuan - with 1 yuan more for the upper deck for a better view - charged on the return trip only. You can also take an around-the-island cruise for 15 yuan, but that's another experience.)

Part of the charm is, there is no motor traffic on the island, which means you'll have to walk. And Gulangyu is a stroller's paradise.

The 1.87-sq-km Gulangyu is known for its architectural diversity and historical richness. Dou Wa / China Photo Press

The 1.87-sq-km Gulangyu is known for its architectural diversity and historical richness. Dou Wa / China Photo Press

You'll probably stumble upon the old consulates of many Western powers. There are also grand mansions that used to be financial institutions. Just imagine a century ago this island had one of the most vibrant CBDs in the country. It's a shame many have fallen into decay, but now they are being restored to their former splendor, at least the structures and facades.

Zigzagging through the residential area, with its churches and temples, are houses so lushly landscaped it is difficult to tell where a residence ends and a park begins. If you are quiet, you'll hear the sounds of a piano wafting from one of the houses.

Gulangyu is known as "Piano Island" not just because there is a museum dedicated to pianos but also because the island has produced a disproportionately large number of China's musicians. As a matter of fact, the list of celebrities from what is literally "Drum Wave Islet" reads like a who's-who of the arts and sciences.

In the old days this was obviously a very upscale enclave. Many of the residents made their fortunes overseas. They brought back money and lifestyles from the countries in which they did business. Now the island of 20,000 is turning into a tourist mecca, somewhat like the Montmartre of Paris if you substitute fine arts for classical music. If you take away the teeming tourists, you can still savor the peace, seclusion and refined tastes of a bygone era.

Which means you'd better stay a night or two. Stroll around in the early morning or at sunset when the tourist army is absent. There are many hotels on the island that come at reasonable rates. Many offer online reservations.

For many, Sunlight Rock is a must-see attraction. It offers a panorama of the island and beyond. It also gives a lesson in history. There are sculptures in memory of Zheng Chenggong and his army, who recaptured Taiwan from the Dutch in 1661. But the most prominent is not about the military action, but a depiction of leisure in a fortress, of soldiers drinking and having fun.

At Gulangyu, fun can be elevated to an art.