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Humble Italian house

By Brian Sun (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2008-11-28 11:41

In Italy, restaurants used to carry hierarchical meaning and acted as a classification system. If the restaurant was called a ristorante, for example, you could expect a formal dining experience—a wine list, white tablecloths and, of course, an exclusive price tag to match. A trattoria was more casual, but it did serve full, hearty meals. And an osteria was the least formal of the three—it was more of a gathering place that served wine and maybe some basic food.

Nestled on the edge of the French Concession along the sleepy lane of Jinxian Road, Osteria introduces the passionate principles of Italian wine and dine into a cozy 3-storey shop-house. Though there are plenty of traditional Italian eateries in Shanghai serving decent pizzas and authentic pastas, Osteria aims to offer something more unique and contemporary. Still in its soft launch period, I was already excited to hear that Osteria is a venture involving an international celebrity sommelier, Zoltan Szabo, entrepreneur Rudy Guo and larger than life, Eduardo Vargas.

Accentuating the quaintness a French Concession cottage Osteria has a notably warm country feel. Colors are delicate earth tones with emphasis on natural wood, both in furnishings as well as structural ceiling beams. It is also a welcome sight to see a generous bar lined with astounding bottles of wine and its informal arrangement of half-opened bottles suggests a bar that is frequently visited. With pockets of private half-moon corners, it comes across as an excellent hideout for afternoon siestas or romantic evening tête-à-têtes.

After being acquainted with Osteria’s managing partner, Zoltan, I quickly learnt that he is a renowned wine sommelier. In contrast to the stereotype of an upper-crust wine aristocrat, Zoltan is as down-to-earth as a seasoned sailor who’s traveled the world’s continents to savor wines and artfully poetic with his knowledge of wine and its origins.

Over a glass of chilled Tuscany Altesino Bianco, I studied the menu, which leaned towards Northern Italian but with its own signature, such as homemade gnocchi and wild rabbit in a pinot grigio reduction. Later on, I learnt that the Canadian native Head Chef, Nigel Bose, spent some time in a reputed authentic restaurant just outside of Milan, Italy. Nigel’s personal specialty is in seafood and quite rightly too, when my appetizer of scallops was seared to golden brown perfection. Paired with another crisp Italian white Muller Thurgau, "Vigneti delle Dolomiti", Elena Walch, Alto Adige, the appetizer was a promising start. The rest of my meal was taken on the second floor, the main dining section that offered several exclusive corners as well as a chill-out balcony for autumn evenings. My entrée was a light-hearted grilled sea bass on a warm bed of finely chopped sautéed ratatouille. The flavors were mild and healthy but perhaps my palette was too engrossed in the tasting of wine placed in front of me.

It has to be mentioned that Osteria is by far one of the most reasonable destinations for an international selection of wine tasting. Without breaking open a new bottle, Osteria offers a very reasonable RMB 78 for 3 glasses of selected wine, known as the flight option. For example, the basic selection already has 23 variations of red to select from, ranging from 2005 to 2007, both Old and New World wines. For aficionados, there are more upscale wines available for the flight option priced at RMB 138 for 3 glasses. With a custom-designed wine “cellar” for the right storage conditions (it is actually on the 3rd floor), opened bottles are expertly re-corked to retain their freshness. For my evening, one of the more intriguing reds was the 2007 Woodthorpe Vineyard Gamay Noir, Te Mata, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand. The nose carried a red berry fragrance of nutrient-rich earth, but the palate was surprisingly light and refreshing with virtually non-existent tannins and bright acids that make it rather versatile with lighter fare.

Before retreating back to the 1st floor lounge for dessert, I strolled up to the 3rd floor to explore the restaurant. With angled rooftop high ceilings, this foyer is ready-made for private parties, sufficient for two large tables of friends and guests. There is even an exclusive attic that is ideal for after-dinner dinners or cigars.

Swiftly remembering my desserts, I descended back to the 1st floor and found a tasting dessert sample. Much of the 5 piece selection consisted of traditional fare like tiramisu and panna cotta, but single-handedly, the chocolate cake wins hand-down with its sinful brick of unadulterated bitter-sweet chocolate with a hint of salt to take the edge off its bitterness.

Having covered almost every possible angle, I believe this new kid on the block shows great potential, especially for the reasonable prices. Though it is still in its early days, I shall be returning more often to savor the menu variations and last but not least, the library of wine selection in Osteria’s humble cellar.

Osteria
Location: 226 Jinxian Road(near South Shanxi Road)
Tel:8621 62568998