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All classics: Chinese and West

By Sam White (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2008-11-28 11:15

A world renowned Chef at the helm, a beautifully renovated Shikumen set apart from the main hustle and bustle of XinTianDi, and a menu stacked with already well-known signatures such as Foie Gras Xiaolong Bao. These are the sum parts that make up Le Platane, one of Shanghai’s most celebrated and well established fine dining institutions.

Now generally when I review a restaurant I like to spend a fair amount of time describing the aesthetics of the place. But with so much to say about the food, suffice to say Le Platane is understated, classic and worth discovering.

So, to the food…

On our visit we were lucky enough to try a number of the Quek signatures through the degustation menu, all perfectly matched by the Sommelier with wines from their award winning selection.

We started with the Truffle infused Mushroom Cappuccino, which to my relief has nothing to do with coffee (not being a fan of the celebrated bean), but instead is a frothy, earthy mushroom soup served in a cappuccino bowl; a great start and a preview of the delicacies to come.

Next up was the famous Foie Gras Xiao Long Bao, which I am happy to report live up to the hype.

Firstly and importantly they are very well constructed versions of the Shanghai classic, the skin is thin but doesn’t fall apart when handled and they are plump with the promise of the goodness to come. The concept may sound unorthodox; the humble xiao long bao getting a truffle and foie gras facelift, but it works so well. They are simply delicious.
The Snow Crab pasta that followed was a simple but a very effective dish, the subtle flavours of the crab shining through.

It was about this time I was ready for some meat, enter the Duo Platter of Wagyu Beef and Suckling Pig.

I have to insert here the wine match for this, the “Franc Petit Figeac” (easily mistakeable for the renowned Chateau Figeac), this right-bank Bordeaux (hope not too many of you are scratching your heads) was perfectly complimentary with both the cuts of meat.

The Wagyu was as tender and delicious as you would expect, but the Suckling was something else. Crispy crackling with tender and delicious meat, a feat they achieved by cooking it in one piece (it’s much easier to prepare the meat and skin separately).
We finished off with an extra thin and crisp Homemade Apple Tart with vanilla ice-cream; this was an appropriate end to a superb meal. It was light, with well-balance sweet and tart flavours from the apple and accompanied by a creamy ice-cream, made on premises.

All-in-all an absolutely pleasurable experience. Well executed and original food matched with great wine. Served by competent and knowledgeable staff in a pleasantly comfortable environment. What more could you want?

Tip: Eat La Mian for a week to save your pennies, then book a table here and enjoy!

Le Platane
Location: 373 HuangPi Nan Lu, near XingYe Lu (Xintiandi)
Tel:021-6386 2899