A nation of lotus eaters

Editor's Note: China is divided into as many culinary regions as there are different ethnic groups. Its geographical diversity and kaleidoscopic cultural profiles contribute to the unending banquet of flavors.

Alfred Tennyson's lengthy poem, The Lotus Eaters, was all about how the lotus seduced and sedated a group of mariners into an altered state of isolation. If the great poet had actually tasted lotus roots himself, he might have written his poem as an ode instead.

The lotus is widely enjoyed as food in Asia, especially in China, and its fans are definitely not too sleepy to defend all of its virtues.

Lotus Root Sandwiches are great with a chili or sweet vinegar dip. Photos Provided to China Daily

First, the lotus is sacred and regarded as a special symbol of Buddhism in China, being a favorite icon of the Goddess of Mercy. She is often depicted standing or sitting on an enormous lotus flower.

Lotus buds, carefully folded back, are often sold outside her temples so devotees can buy themas offerings.

In China, it is the flower of summer, just as winter is best symbolized by the peach, spring by the orchid and autumn by the chrysanthemum.

Although the lotus was originally from India, the Chinese have adopted it as their own and found uses for every single part of this aquatic plant.

Apart from the aesthetic value of its blooms, the dried stamens are used in traditional Chinese medicine, as are the petals, leaves and seed pods.

The flowers are not perfumed. but the whole plant exudes a slightly medicinal smell.

The bright green shoots hidden inside the lotus seeds are intensely bitter. They are collected, dried and used in infusions meant to clear the heat from tired bodies. They are a traditional cure for pimples and acne as well, and young girls wanting a clear complexion willingly drink the bitter brew.

The seeds, however, are sweet and nutty and are eaten fresh, straight from the pod, or dried and preserved. They are rehydrated and cooked in stir-fries and in soups both sweet and savory. The nuts are also ground down into a sweet paste that is popularly used in Chinese cakes and pastries.

Glutinous rice balls, sweet flaky pastries, dumplings and mooncakes all make use of lotus paste as a filling. Lotus seeds are cooked and candied as well and are a popular snack during the lunar new year festivities and weddings.

That's because the Chinese word for lotus seeds, lianzi, is homophonic with the words "sons born every year".

Lotus root is actually a misnomer, because the most famous edible part of the lotus is actually the swollen stems, which grow underwater, and not the actual roots, which appear like beards along the noded segments.

It is for these that farmers grow the lotus, and there are about 500,000 to 700,000 hectares under cultivation all over the country, depending on demand. The most famous producers are concentrated in Hubei province, especially around the city of Wuhan.

However, the lotus root is such a popular vegetable that it is grown wherever there is water, from the peaty, black-earthed regions of China's northeast to the riverine hinterlands of both the Yellow and Yangtze rivers, to the coastal provinces down south to the island of Hainan.

Lotus roots are eaten in more ways than we can count, and starch made from the root is valued as a health supplement for the old and weak and is used for various puddings and cakes.

Young stem tips, known as lotus whips, are eaten when young and tender, and are available only for a very short season when the lotus plants are sprouting.

Leaves are used fresh or dried to wrap food. One of the most famous Cantonese dim sum is glutinous chicken rice wrapped and steamed in lotus leaves.

Leaves are also cut and dried and then cooked in porridge during summer as a cooler.

A length of lotus root can have different textures.

The thinner new stems are very tender, crisp and sweet and excellent for stir-fries or pickles or eaten fresh. They can also be juiced, usually with other fruits.

Thicker segments are more starchy and mealy, and are therefore best suited for stews and soups, in which they can be slowly tenderized.

They are often grated and made into patties and pancakes, or thinly sliced with meat sandwiched between and deep-fried.

Nutrition-wise, the lotus root is valued for its cooling properties and is used in Chinese medicine to regulate blood circulation. It is especially beneficial to women.

One thing to note. Raw lotus root is very cooling, and those with a weaker constitution should always eat it cooked.

paulined@chinadaily.com.cn

From soup to sandwiches, lotus can be eaten hot or cold

Lotus Roots With Pork Ribs Soup

This is a very popular soup, eaten mostly in Hubei and the southern provinces, but it has become popular in the major cities as well, due to the migrant diaspora.

500g pork ribs

1kg lotus root, about two big segments

100g peanuts

2-3 dried Chinese jujubes

1-2 thin slices of ginger

Salt to taste

Blanch the pork ribs in boiling water to get rid of scum and stray bone splinters.

Break the lotus into segments and peel. Leave whole.

Heat a large pot of water. When water boils, add pork ribs, lotus root, peanuts, Chinese jujubes and ginger.

Bring back to a boil, skim off froth and scum and simmer for about 40 minutes. Test that ribs are tender. Season with salt.

Take out the lotus segments and cut into thin slices. Serve with a soy sauce dip. Serve the accompanying soup piping hot.

Diced Lotus Roots

This is a crisp, sweet and sour vegetable that is perfect for hot weather. It can be eaten hot or served cold.

500g lotus roots

1/2 carrot

100g green beans, topped and tailed

3-4 cloves garlic, chopped

1 tablespoon black vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon Chinese wine

Peel lotus root and dice into fine cubes. Cut the carrots and beans into similar dices.

Mix vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, cornstarch, sesame oil and Chinese wine together. Set aside.

Heat up oil in wok and fry garlic till fragrant, but not too browned. Add diced lotus, beans and carrots and stir-fry till beans darken. Stir the sauce mix well before adding the vegetables. Quickly stir to mix.

Taste, and adjust seasoning if needed.

Lotus Root Sandwiches

500g lotus root

300g minced pork

1/2 onion

Salt and pepper

Sesame oil

2 eggs

1 cup plain flour

Peel the lotus root and cut into thin slices. Soak in salted water.

Finely dice the onions and mix into the minced meat. Season with salt, pepper and sesame oil to taste. Vigorously mix in one direction until-mixture clumps and is sticky.

Place the flour onto a plate and have the eggs beaten and ready. Season the flour with salt and pepper.

Dust one side of the lotus root with flour and place a spoonful of meat on top, press another lotus root slice on top, floured side down.

Dip the lotus sandwich into flour, and then into the egg. Dip it once more into the flour and deep-fry in 180 C oil till lightly golden. You need only 2 to 3 minutes for each side. Drain on kitchen towels.

Serve with a chili or sweet vinegar dip.