A winter refuge from the cold and smog

Island province proves popular with retirees, residents of northern cities hit by winter air pollution

Widespread smog in many of China's northern cities is driving ever-larger crowds of winter tourists south to the island province of Hainan in search of cleaner air.

Located on the 18th parallel north, the same line of latitude as Kingston in Jamaica, Hainan's tropical climate means it is widely regarded by Chinese people as a winter paradise.

"The inroads that smog has made in northern cities have driven up air ticket prices remarkably to Haikou, capital of Hainan, and Sanya, a well-known resort at the southernmost part of the island," said an official from the Haikou city government.

"Tickets to get here are sometimes priced five times higher than tickets to leave."

In the past, tourists flocked from northern provinces and regions just to escape the bitter cold, but avoiding smog has also become a popular motive for traveling to Hainan.

"Hearing now and then on TV about heavy snowfalls in my northern hometown and the red alerts for smog in many cities, I feel lucky that my family can retreat to a place where we can 'face the sea, with spring flowers blossoming'," said retiree Lao Li, referencing a well-known poem by Chinese poet Hai Zi.

Known as the "Hawaii of China", and the nation's orchard, Hainan ranks highly among Chinese provinces for its level of ecology and clean air.

It is not uncommon for senior citizens with chronic illnesses, such as asthma or skin problems, to find their conditions have improved after spending time on the island.

The province's lush greenery, together with an ongoing program of infrastructure improvement, combine to make Hainan popular with senior vacationers - nicknamed "migratory birds" because they fly south to the island each year.

Lao Li is typical of this group: retirees with houses of their own who spend about six months a year on the island.

There are about 400,000 of these "migratory birds", who live life at a leisurely pace in cities along the island's east and south coasts, socializing and enjoying the sunshine and sea views from the many beaches.

Sanya, population 740,000, is the most popular tourist city in China, according to official statistics, followed by Weihai in Shandong province, Hangzhou in Zhejiang province and Xiamen in Fujian province.

About 80 percent of the city's apartments have been purchased by mainlanders and it is common to spot vehicles with number plates registered to cities and provinces that are thousands of kilometers away, such as Beijing, Heilongjiang, Liaoning, Xinjiang, Shanxi, Shandong and Chongqing.

The percentage of homes owned by mainlanders is generally higher in other, smaller cities around the island, which has a total population of 9 million.

A series of events were held in Haikou earlier this month to mark the 980th birthday of Su Shi (1037-1101), an official and literary giant of the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127), who was banished to the island for many years.

The activities served as a reminder that Hainan was once thought of as a wild and unforgiving place.

It no longer has that reputation, however, and in 2009 it was designated an international tourist island by the State Council.

Infrastructure construction has been fast-tracked and 51 international flights now link Hainan with major cities in 20 countries and regions.

In late 2015, the world's first high-speed railway circling an island started operations and an expressway network has also been built.

"Apart from the natural gifts such as the rainforests and volcanoes, the tropical island province has a lot more to offer: its unique history, rich ancient culture and delicious food - a top concern when traveling," said Wang Hua, a tourism researcher from nearby Guangdong province.

"Truly, Hainan is a paradise for food lovers - Wenchang chicken, Jiaji duck, Hele crab and Dongshan lamb, its various noodles, its 'Old Daddy's Tea' - just to name a few."

Zhan Lanlan, a mainland saleswoman who was traveling on the island, described it as a "romantic place to visit and a peaceful and leisurely place to stay".

Last year, about 60 million tourists visited Hainan and annual arrivals are expected to reach 80 million by 2020, according to a national strategy outlined in 2010.

mazhiping@chinadaily.com.cn

Senior vacationers enjoy the sunshine in a park in Sanya, Hainan province.Sha Xiaofeng / Xinhua