Moroccan marinades from humble host
By Eileen Wen Mooney (China Daily)
Updated: 2010-09-09 10:26
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In a city where lavish decor and heavy oversized menus are the norm at many eateries, especially Chinese establishments, the single page menu at Argana displays the humble but excellent range of dishes at this unassuming dining venue.
Owner-cum-chef Youssef makes simple yet delicious Moroccan dishes from his native land, including fabulous Moroccan tapas and tagines. What I like about Argana is its down-to-earth and honest food; without any pretense, and best yet, prepared with love and pride.
My favorite is the Casablanca chicken tagine (88 yuan), which is cooked with home preserved lemons (no additives), onions, herbs and green olives.
The Moorish lamb tagine (98 yuan) is paired with prunes, almonds, sesame seeds and caramelized onion.
Each tagine is slow cooked the old fashioned way, the way Youssef's Moroccan ancestors used to cook: stewing the marinated meat in a conical cooking vessel made from clay called a tagine, hence the name of the dish.
Youssef's tagine collection is impressive. You'll find small, medium and large clay pots in his spotlessly clean kitchen.
These stewed dishes have not only the most wonderful herbal aroma and flavorful meat, this old cooking vessel also does a super job in attaining perfect tenderness. The chicken falls off the bone, but does not get mushy.
Finally, the broth at the bottom of the tagine dish is exquisite, so ask for a spoon to ladle it up; or order a side dish of couscous, which nicely absorbs this tasty broth. I finished mine entirely and the taste lingers in my memory.
The salad selection is equally good. The Moroccan salad (48 yuan) is loaded with roasted peppers, chorizo, raisins, and nuts and mixed greens tossed in a delightful dressing.
The Moro Salad (38 yuan) consists of rocket lettuce, rosemary, raisins and walnuts bathed in a balsamic dressing - refreshing and healthy.
The house-made ham is very popular and quite often bought out by the city's Spanish community. If you're lucky, some will be available for your meal. House wine is served by the glass at an affordable 48 yuan.
Youssef is one of the few chefs I've met who readily invites guests to see his kitchen. He walked me through his neat and clean cooking area and opened one of the containers that had a few remaining washed and cut vegetables.
"I don't buy a lot," he said. "I want to keep the food fresh." The ingredients are purchased every day for daily consumption.
The easygoing and chatty Youssef showed me his bread is baked daily. His bread is light, chewy and tasty, and is served with extra-virgin olive oil for you to enjoy while your food is being prepared. Despite its light texture, the bread is very satisfying. The advantage of this bread is that you don't feel too stuffed before your main meal arrives.
Argana's prices are neither cheap nor too expensive; considering the quality of the food and how beautifully it is prepared.
The sidewalk area is a great spot to dine on a breezy night, candles flickering on every table. Youssef loves to visit every table for a small chat, making you feel right at home.