Rare Michelin treat for Beijing gourmets

Sample Paul Bocuse's legendary signature dishes from his restaurant. Ye Jun gets a first taste.

It's not hard to have a good meal in Beijing today, but it is still rare to be fed by a three-starred Michelin chef, and one who is a disciple of the legendary Paul Bocuse. That is why it is such a significant occasion for gourmets in Beijing when Le Pre Lenotre, the French restaurant at Sofitel Wanda Beijing, invited Christophe Muller as guest chef.

Muller is executive chef at L'auberge du Pont de Collonges of Leon, France, the restaurant founded by Paul Bocuse, one of the most prominent chefs associated with nouvelle cuisine. Bocuse, 84, still enters the kitchen at the restaurant to give advice.

Muller trained with Bocuse at the restaurant and on this trip to Beijing, he has brought over his restaurant's signature dishes, including the famous truffle soup Bocuse created in 1975 for a presidential dinner at the Elysee Palace and named after former French president Valery Giscard d'Estaing.

Another famous signature is the velvety Duck Liver Royale, a custard with finely sieved liver added. The egg and liver is a perfect match enhanced by crayfish meat and roasted almonds on top.

Sauteed duck breast with Apicius sauce and preserved carrots is prepared rare. The skin is crusted with sesame and the first thing to note is the aromatic sauce, made from 12 ingredients, including caramel, ginger, cumin, cinnamon, aniseed and sugar. Most Chinese are not used to the scent of strong cinnamon but Muller's sauce is just right.

The duck is sourced from Beijing, but raised the French way. Although the bird was wonderfully prepared, there were some tendons that made it a tad too chewy.

Puff pastry is a traditional specialty in France and Muller prepares a delicious pastry case filled with vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce on top. The pastry has a sugar crust that gives an interesting contrast.

What makes the food different? It is the delicacy of preparation of the best ingredients.

Another aspect is the masterful matching of different ingredients to achieve a harmonious combination pleasant to both tongue and tummy.

Christophe Muller will be here until Oct 19, so there is still time to book. A five-course set meal costs 668 yuan ($100) per person, and a seven-course set meal is priced at 1,088 yuan per person. An a la carte menu is also available.