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Shoulder pads bring '80s style to Fashion Week

(Agencies)
Updated: 2009-02-17 17:21

CAROLINA HERRERA

While everyone else might be obsessed with the 1980s, Carolina Herrera looked to the decorative elements of the 18th century for the fall collection she debuted Monday.

And the copper hardware that mimicked those old architectural details added the most modern touches to the dominant fitted shape with a tight, high waist.
The mixing of textured silk, reflective jacquard, lace, suede and a recurring floral motif created a luxurious patchwork quilt, and she also created an eye-catching draped wrap with long sleeves that was worn over gowns, many of which had a corset peeking out from underneath.

CYNTHIA ROWLEY

The usually effervescent party girl in Cynthia Rowley's clothes went into mourning for the economy, showing up in black with I'm-too-overworked-to-care hair.

The majority of the 1940s-inspired looks were entirely black, though Rowley kept it interesting by mixing textures in silk, velvet and leather dresses. Basket-weaved strips of black silk made wide Obi belts that offset stern black silk dresses.

The somber mood was only occasionally broken up by the few shots of electric blue, with tough-as-nails motorcycle leather.

The most dramatic and striking silhouettes were her more delicate looks, including a white minidress surrounded by cascading ruffles that turned sexy when it was backlit by the runway lights.

For the more hard-core rock 'n' roll girl, there were plenty of black skinny jeans and barely-there tops. And for everyone else, there were Stuart's short strapless dresses, the bread-ande skinniest of legs, some looking painted on the models. The lower waist was in most instances refreshing, but the dropped-crotch trousers that almost hung to knees were silly and unflattering.

CALVIN KLEIN MENSWEAR

The new armor for the working man is made of molded foam, a fabric that repels anything you throw at it.

Calvin Klein menswear designer Italo Zucchelli used this fabric for modern-day Michelitic look in basic shades of gray and they were woven into the larger fall collection, which was mostly slim, monochromatic two-button suits offered in gray-black-taupe colors named anthracite, vapor and zinc.

ERIN FETHERSTON

A first glance at Erin Fetherston's mini hoop skirts renders a verdict of cute-but-not-wearable. However, when the designer herself wore a black version of this kooky teacup silhouette, she looked pretty darned cute.

The theme of Fetherston's show on Sunday was life-size dolls, complete with girlie bows and Swiss-dot gloves. The collection, dubbed "Tinderbox," was gimmicky, but there was something fresh in the unabashed femininity, which has been a rare sight at the previews of fall styles.

Fetherston embraced delicate tops in chiffon, ruffled necklines and a floral print of a magnolia blossom. She also used a delicate lavender and a rich cranberry color to break up all the black and white.

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