Watchmakers opt for understatements

The Radiomir 8 Days GMT Oro Rosso watch dial shines like a diamond because it is made of the copper-platinum alloy 5NPt.

It's just one of the innovations introduced by watchmaker Officine Panerai, which is celebrating its 10-year anniversary with a huge exhibition at its Hong Kong boutique.

The company's 48 special edition watches are presented in a mysterious and elegant setting of black walls, warm and dim lighting.

Unlike fashion labels that like to make a splash with their decor, watchmakers are more understated so they can show their wares to the best advantage.

The exterior of Officine Panerai's boutique in Hong Kong (opened in 2002) has a low-key brown facade.

Inside, watches are displayed behind porthole like glass windows and the store has a discernible military ambience.

Officine Panerai has a long connection with the military. The label used to develop equipment for the Royal Italian Navy, producing clocks for submarines.

Kang Weikai, China's celebrated watch expert says it is important for watch stores to connect with their label's culture.

For example, Breitling, brags of its connection to aircrafts and aviators by introducing airplane models to its store at the newly opened Parkview Green Fangcaodi Shopping Mall, in Beijing.

An Omega watch was the first to the moon, in 1969, so the label often has an astronaut's spacesuit at its stores.

When we took a tour of the Officine Panerai boutique, two customers were discussing watches with assistants in the VIP zone.

"I would say our clients have strong personalities and good taste. They are from 30 to 50 years old and are usually successful in their careers, " says Jean-Sebastien Gerondeau, managing director of Officine Panerai Asia Pacific.

"They are looking for something different, something unique within the luxury sports watch sector."

Like Officine Panerai, more watch labels are employing technical equipment to show off their watches.

Altiplano, the thin timepiece produced by Swiss luxury watchmaker Piaget, is fixed onto a machine which turns 360 degrees, so clients can see it from all angles.

The label has another watch, Twice, which has two faces, on the front and back. If a customer observes one side, he will miss the other side.

In Piaget's boutique, when this watch is presented, a small mirror is put behind it, so that consumers can see the two sides at the same time.

gantian@chinadaily.com.cn