At this time of year we often hear arguments in favour of turkey versus goose for festive dinners. But it wasn't always so, goose has been gracing the tables of Europe for thousands of years. Cheap to produce as they spend the majority of their lives grazing on grass in open fields they were farmed in gigantic flocks in rural England. When market ready their feet were dipped in hot tar and sand to protect them from hard roads before being marched in gigantic flocks to the cities.

Nowadays, the free-range goose is reared exclusively on grass and greenery, fattened on grain, usually wheat or barley, and is fatter and meatier as a result. Goose meat is richer and more flavourful than turkey and pound for pound, it's more economical.

In Germany potato dumplings, red cabbage, and stuffing with potato is served. In England, Scotland and Ireland, the stuffing has apple or cranberry, sausage meat and/or bacon. Accompanied by a sauce, the best is one made from apples, walnuts and pomegranates.

For 3 to 4 people a small goose of 8 to 10 pounds is perfect.

To prepare: prick the skin all over with a sharp fork, including the legs and under the wings, try not to pierce the flesh underneath the skin. Geese have a thick layer of fat under their skins that needs to be released during roasting to make the skin crisp. Place the bird in a deep roasting tin - it will shed a lot of fat - don't throw that *fat away it makes the most wonderful chips and lasts for a long time.

Stuffing mix: chop 1 large onion, 2 green apples cored and peeled, 1 handful fresh parsley, 1 cup fresh or thawed cranberries, 1 or 2 Tbsp instant oatmeal, the juice of 1 lemon/1 orange, and chop in 2 strips of bacon if desired.

Pile stuffing into the main cavity and the neck area and truss the goose with kitchen string or twine (NOT plastic) making sure the legs and wings are firmly anchored to the body.

Heat the oven to 220 C (425 F), put in the goose and roast it for 30 minutes. Remove the goose from the oven and *very carefully pour off the fat into a heatproof container - take care it will be very hot! You can get a pint of fat at this stage! *If you're not confident pouring off the fat, just remove it with a long metal ladle.

Turn the goose onto its other side and put back in the oven. Turn the temperature down to 175 C (350 F) and roast for 2.5 to 3 hours further, turning the bird over every 30 minutes or so. Test for doneness by piercing with a skewer at the fat part of the thigh - it should not show pink (blood) when done. Remove all the stuffing from the carcass after cooking, set aside until needed. Let the goose rest for 20 minutes before carving.

Pulling for luck - keep in mind the wishbone is tough to crack so a kid may need help!

The ideal sauce: finely chop 1 large onion, 2 cloves garlic, a handful of finely chopped walnuts, 3 Tbsp chives and saut gently for 3 minutes in olive oil, add 1 cup of stock, 1 peeled/chopped red apple, 1 cup fresh pomegranate juice with the seeds, 1 tspn honey, 1 glass amontillado sherry wine, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for 15+ minutes and thicken with cornflour. As you chop the apple drop it into the pomegranate juice to keep it from discoloring.

N.B. Boil up the carcass for next day soup or stock. When cooled the poured off fat will keep for months refrigerated in a closed jar and makes great chips - and real game chips.

(HK Edition 12/24/2015 page10)