Cold water fish is a staple of many cuisines in colder climates, but many of the old recipes are also ideal for summer salads or cold suppers and lunches in warmer countries.

Herring and mackerel: these subtle, velvety fish are so tasty and nutritious it would be remiss not to include them in this column. Today, I've adapted recipes that have been popular for centuries in Scotland, the Netherlands and Scandinavia. The fish are easy to prepare and available both fresh and frozen here.

Full of flavor, mackerel is a firm-fleshed fish that is low in fat and full of nutrients, and easily cooked in a frying pan or grill. Even if the fish has been frozen, do take time to check and remove any scales that have been left on and rinse thoroughly, *see below.

A quick method of cooking mackerel or herring fillets that requires little preparation: Put 1 Tbsp safflower oil or salt-free butter in a pre-heated pan. Sprinkle the fleshy side of the fish with a pinch of salt and white pepper and put it in the pan skin-side down. Cook over medium heat for 3-4 minutes before turning it over and cooking for a further three minutes. Check for doneness by using a fork; the flesh will have turned opaque and will flake easily when it is ready. Too much cooking dries it out. Serve with salad greens and freshly cooked beetroot and/or with home-made creamy ravioli pasta, see next week's Food Column (September 13) for ravioli recipes.

This following treatment only works if the fish is fresh. To prepare fresh fish, start by *removing the scales. To make that easier, place the fish on a flat dish and rub 1 or 2 Tbsp of white vinegar onto the scales and set aside for 2 minutes. Then, holding the fish firmly by the tail, use the back of a knife (not the sharp edge) or a scaling tool to scrape off the scales. Use the blade in short, sharp bursts against the grain of the scales and back again, working the knife from the tail to the head. Rinse the fish well. If need be, slice down the length of the belly of the fish and pull the innards out and discard. Run cold water over the fish and inside the belly cavity to clean thoroughly. Fillet each fish neatly in two, or get the fishmonger to do it all and also to 'butterfly' them.

For two people, put 4-6 fish fillets (2 fillets per fish) in a deep dish or platter and sprinkle evenly with 1-2 Tbsp sea salt, wrap the lot in cling film and refrigerate for two hours. The salt will extract a little juice from the fish so make sure to use a platter or dish that is deep enough.

In the meantime, in a saucepan, bring to the boila generous 8fl ozs (250ml) cider vinegar, 200 gms (1 cup) fine caster sugar, tspn white pepper, 1 tspn dried thyme, 2 bay leaves, 1 carrot finely sliced, 1 purple onion finely sliced, 7 crushed juniper berries, 1 tspn salt and the rinds of 1 lemon and 1 orange. For a tasty variation, instead of orange you can substitute the rind of 2 kumquats when in season. When it boils, immediately turn off the heat and allow the mix to cool. This is a sweet pickle so if you prefer a sharper, spicier version, cut the amount of sugar in half at least and add a dash of chilli oil.

Remove the fish fillets from the fridge, rinse off the salt and pat dry with kitchen paper and place in a non-reactive food container. Pour the cooled cooked marinade over the fish making sure it is completely covered by the liquid and enclose with the appropriate lid or cling film and store in the fridge for 24 hours. This is great served with bread and butter and a German gewrztraminer wine with its aromas of rose petals, lychees, pink grapefruit and spices, a Semillon from Australia or a classic Chablis from France. Not a fan of wines right now? Never mind, just brew up a pot of black tea, according to some research done in USA in 2002 they are ideal together.

Using either of the two previous recipes for herring or mackerel, or if you happen to have a jar of Rollmops in the cupboard, add them to the following for lunch or supper.

For two persons: Put 8-10 small potatoes in cold water, bring to the boil and cook for 20 minutes until tender. Drain, set aside to cool and then cut into quarters. Make a dressing by mixing 2 Tbsp sour cream or plain yoghurt, 4 Tbsp mayonnaise, 2 Tbsp spring onions or fresh dill very finely chopped, 1 Tbsp pickled capers or caperberries, 1 Tbsp chopped pickled gherkins. Combine 2-4 cooked (or pickled) herring fillets cut into strips, the potatoes and the dressing and toss together, check the seasoning and serve with some crusty bread and butter.

(HK Edition 09/06/2013 page7)