Beefing it up

[Photo by Mike Peters/CHINA DAILY]

While this is no burger joint, Char also serves up a widely praised burger. It's Wagyu, too.

Besides the truffle mashed potatoes that came with our beef platter, we chose a side of asparagus, which came au gratin with Parmentier cheese, truffle, one of those trendy 38 C eggs and a nice textural addition of quinoa.

Dessert, if you have room, deserves special consideration. We tried two: a chocolate fondant with a molten center and vanilla ice cream, and an apple tart tatin that was simply a stunner.

Why?

The kitchen honors the simplicity of the apple as much as the simplicity of great beef. The pastry base is made with little if any sugar, and the slices of fruit are sweetened and spiced just as sparingly. The result is not the gloppy tart favored by many pastry chefs but a trophy of bare-naked apple goodness on a crust that's baked hot and fast, giving the edges a crisp edge like a pizza.

Almost ... charred.

Contact the writer at michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn