Flat white may be Beijing's brew of the moment

Cafe Flatwhite (Sanlitun)

I couldn't ignore the chain whose namesake ignited my search. The website reads Cafe Flatwhite was "inspired by New Zealand cafe culture". Turns out my favorite cup may not be uniquely Australian after all! The cafe even has its own roastery, so they must know a thing or two about a good cuppa. But I was skeptical. Could the Kiwis really concoct a credible flat white?

True to form, it's served in a cup and armed with a double shot. I say armed because this baby packs a punch. The coffee flavor is exceptionally rich while the milk is stretched without being fluffy. It's a seriously sensual serving, and at 20 yuan the cheapest yet. Rating: 9.

Wagas (Dongzhimen)

"Have you tried Australian coffee?" asked my friend Brian. He had recently visited Wagas and was intrigued by the "Flat White" Chinese translation of "Australian-style coffee.'

"The kick creeps up on you, it was amazing!" he said. With that review I couldn't resist.

My small-sized 27-yuan order arrives in a curiously half-filled tall glass. Not much effort was made with presentation, but it's fragrant and inviting. The scent hints at its strength, maybe a little too much. A bitter taste explodes in my mouth and gets washed over with disappointingly watery milk. Potent but lifeless. Perhaps I'll tell Brian to look elsewhere. Rating: 6.

(China Daily 03/03/2015 page24)