Agony and ecstasy for the senses

It's the deep-fried taste, it's the crispy crunch, and it's the stench. It's stinky tofu, the iconic "bizarre food" that you can never forget once you've tried it, or even had a whiff of it.

Stinky tofu is made by soaking fresh tofu in a brine of salt and fermented vegetables. It sounds vile, but once you get past the stench, it is actually a healthy snack.

Years ago in Hong Kong, stinky tofu was sold by hawkers with their little wooden carts outside subway stations. They would deep-fry the squares of tofu in bubbling oil and serve it piping hot. However, protests from people with sensitive noses, who found the wafting odor offensive, has made it a lot harder to locate this traditional delicacy.

Good stinky tofu should be fried until a crisp gold on the outside. There are a variety of sauces that can be dribbled on the tofu, including chili sauce, sweet sauce, and garlic sauce. My personal preference is the sweet sauce, but I've seen others add all three on top of a piece of tofu. It looks a bit messy, but they seemed to be enjoying the experience.

Inside, the tofu must be soft and creamy, with a texture rather like ripe cheese. It should be a perfect foil to the crisp outer "skin" and it is this contrast in textures that makes it such a delight in the mouth. The sauces that can be both sweet and spicy enhance the creaminess of the tofu.

Some refer to the stinky tofu's stench as "invisible noxious fumes" that permeate your being when they hit you. These are the people who most likely will not enjoy the stinky tofu experience. Like durian, if you can't get past the smell, you won't be able to enjoy the sensational taste and texture.

Next time you are in Hong Kong, take a whiff and follow your nose to the stinky tofu stall if you smell something like dirty socks that have been maturing for a few weeks. Pluck up your courage and give it a try. Hate it, and you will never eat it again. Love it, and you'll be hooked for life.