Tasting ambrosia in Heaven on Earth

Does anybody know what dining in paradise feels like?

Suzhou in Jiangsu province enjoys the age-old reputation of being one of the "twin paradises on earth" (the other being Hangzhou), but the cuisine popular here is not named after the city, but rather falls under the category of Huaiyang.

A case in point is fast expanding Water Paradise, a franchise with 30 outlets in Suzhou and adjacent cities and towns. It borrows culinary styles from all over the world, yet adds a touch that is uniquely Suzhou.

Its Western cuisines are customized for local tastes. Its borscht is not as sour or creamy as the Russian kind. Its steaks are marinated with Chinese seasonings and grilled to at least 70 percent, never dripping with blood. "We use Chinese or Australian beef, the best kind," says Mei Runshen, chairman of the Water Paradise Group.

Obviously, this type of cuisine cashes in on the tastes of an increasingly wealthy populace willing to try new things. So it is accordingly priced for the middle class.

Water Paradise offers some 100 varieties of Western food. "Everything is prepared with meticulous attention. Nothing is microwaved and put on the table," Mei explains.

It does not limit itself to Western offerings. Its Singapore-style or Malaysian fried rice is as authentic as can be. So is the Hainan chicken rice, which is also popular in Southeast Asia. Its dried meat with rice in a clay pot reminds one of the boisterous delectability of a Cantonese food stall, but transformed into a quieter, more stylized setting. Flanking the ancient town are two sprawling industrial parks with large investments from Southeast Asia. It's natural that Suzhou should embrace southern influences.

Water Paradise knows when to have fusion food and when to be true to the original flavor, and some of its most treasured dishes come closer to home. Hailing from southern Zhejiang, the province to the south, is the so-called "No 1 chicken under heaven". What makes it "No 1" is the unique preparation.

A chicken that weighs 1.25 km is marinated with local "yellow wine", soy sauce and some spices. It has to be a free-range chicken. The bird sits on four pig's feet.

A wok is coated with grainy salt. Inside the wok is placed another utensil - an earthenware casserole. No water is put into it, just the whole uncut chicken and the pig's feet. Then the wok is covered with a wooden top.

For three and half hours, a small flame heats the casserole in the wok. It should not be opened at any time during the whole process lest the genie of good taste escapes. When it is done, a thick meat-scented puff gushes out, filling your nostrils with its all-engulfing aroma.

Despite the absence of water, the finished stew is one fifth immersed in rich juice. You are advised to dip the chicken into it before you start munching. The bones are so crispy you can literally chew them.

The only problem: It has to be prepared in advance, and only 80 fowls are served in the restaurant each day. So, one had better book ahead to guarantee the delivery of this "No 1" chicken.

Another dish that also takes a long time to prepare is called "the immortal king of fish head". It originally comes from the Thousand-Island Lake area of Zhejiang province. Again, the material has to be fresh and raw - a fish about three kg. Absolutely no frozen fillets. Boiling for three-plus hours with a small fire, you need to add other ingredients, such as bamboo shoots, small vegetables and fish balls.

The funny thing is, the fish balls turn into the shape of pancakes. They taste like tofu but extremely delicious, literally melting in your mouth. The soup has absorbed all the flavor of the fish and the accompanying ingredients, turning so creamy it can easily be mistaken for milk.

Fish soup tends to be delicious no matter how long you boil it. But this "immortal king" really sets itself apart. It is said to be so nutritious that new mothers flock to Water Paradise for the purpose of restoring their vitality.

If you are a vegetarian, don't be scared away. The veggie assortment was an old-time favorite in local monasteries. Ingredients include fried gluten puffs from Wuxi, black fungus from the Northeast, sesame oil from Anhui, water chestnuts, smoked bean curds and daylilies. The sesame oil must have been hand squeezed, not machine processed. No starch is used in cooking.

Each kitchen of a Water Paradise restaurant has a separate inner room where the special dishes are prepared. Nothing is left to chance. "Our customers demand healthy food that is tasty," Mei Runshen says. "And we deliver, by painstakingly making every step of the process, from ingredient selection to the method of cooking, perfect. No effort is spared, yet it does not show. All you need to do is savor - slowly."

Like the quintessential Suzhou garden, this new blend of Suzhou cuisine is not grand at first sight. It just leaves a lingering succulence on the palette. That is the Suzhou spirit.