Modern Indian cuisine tantalizes taste buds

Traditional Indian cuisine often conjures up thoughts of mouth-numbing, face-reddening spiciness - but that is simply not the reality, according to Master Chef Ankit Sharma.

"The first thing that comes to mind when people think Indian food is 'spicy', but it's a myth," he said.

"I can't even eat spicy food."

Sharma said he will spend the next week in Beijing disproving misconceptions as he cooks up the most au courant cuisine India has to offer during a guest chef appearance at Raffles Hotel's East 33 restaurant.

He recognizes just how difficult the challenge could be.

"What I've learned so far since being in Beijing is that not many Chinese people like Indian food - they don't yet appreciate it. It's a big challenge for me to change their feelings, no matter how many people I cater to," he said.

Using a combination of time-tested techniques, a fusion of European influences and a well-researched knowledge of the Chinese palate, Sharma has spent the past month preparing a set of seven contemporary Indian dishes specially suited to Chinese tastes.

"If I have to modify something according to customers' preferences, it's OK as long as I make a mark," he said.

He says his best-tasting and most famous dish, a lamb biryani, will win the hearts of even the most cynical.

The recipe was taught to him by a master chef for one of India's royal families, he said, and was originally reserved for only the kings of old India. It's the one he is most proud of, and at 16-hour cooking time, one of the longest to make.

Engaging more than just the taste buds is another of Sharma's strategies for quality cuisine. Using artistic techniques and special ingredients, he says each dish engages not only taste, but also sight and scent.

As he prepares to charm the Chinese over to Indian fare, Sharma was given the honor of preparing his dishes for the Indian Embassy as they celebrated the Republic of India's 61st anniversary on Jan 26.

Sharma is one of the youngest of the up-and-coming chefs on the Indian cooking scene. Though just 27 years old, he has already achieved culinary success through owning and operating the Varq restaurant in New Delhli, where his work has earned recognition from top international food publications.

His restaurant is placed among the top 40 restaurants in the world by international travel publication Conde Nast.

He also worked in the kitchens for Taj Hotels, one of India's top luxury chains, for more than four years.

"One big achievement for me is the way I've risen up in my career. It's very difficult to handle what I'm handling at 27 and it's something I've achieved by my own self," Sharma said.

He has earned that recognition by etching out a niche for himself in the increasingly popular style of contemporary Indian cooking by mastering the art of mixing European and Indian flavors.

"Contemporary is a very intelligent mix of outside ingredients in an Indian dish," he said.

"It's a very important, up-and-coming cuisine."

He says one of the trademarks of the new style Indian cuisine is a certain light elegance that counters what most people previously thought of South Asian cuisine.

"Elegance is what was lacking in Indian food," he said.

One thing he says makes his dishes worth waiting for is the precision in which they are cooked. Many restaurants will try to find ways to cook a dish quicker, or cheaper, but he says he makes it a point to never take shortcuts.

"If a dish is supposed to be cooked at around 100 degrees, it will be exactly 100 degrees, not even 99.9, not even 101, even if it takes an extra 45 minutes," he said.

Sharma will be serving up his specialized Indian dishes for lunch and dinner at the Raffles Beijing Hotel's East 33 restaurant until Feb 1.

Lunch costs 118 yuan and is available from 12 pm until 2 pm. Dinner, which includes free flow soft drinks and beer, costs 288 yuan. Reservations for the event can be made by calling 6526 3388 ext 5171.