Looking back, moving forward

A model presents creations by Dries Van Noten [Photo/Agencies]

Dries van Noten's cultural symphony

What do you get if you mix a "symphony of cultural references" with "obsessional fabrics"?

Dries Van Noten gave us the answer in his passionate, colorful and unconventional fashion show on Wednesday, which mixed encyclopedic references from across continents and the ages with typical artfulness.

Geisha styles, literally, rubbed shoulders with elbow-length ruffled "Pompadour sleeves", 18th century full skirts and peplums - while bomber jackets gave the collection a contemporary twist.

The Asian musing produced some very enviable silhouettes - such as one silken coat in ochre and khaki with a decorative disc print, and a high-cinched waist and high-collar.

Above all, it was the color that made this collection shine.

Spun sugar pink, sky gray blue, buttercup and coral fluttered stylishly by alongside what the program notes evocatively described as "shadowy darks", "Raj khaki" and "Eau de Nil".

A cultural symphony at its best.

Rochas celebrates 90 years since birth of house founder

Iconic fashion designer Marcel Rochas - who died in 1955 - was born 90 years ago this year.

To mark this, Rochas' current designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua delved deep into the house's retro DNA and modernized it with very creative results.

As if sifting through the 1950s look-book, the show opened in a post-World War II donkey brown. A fabulous oversize heart-shaped "sweetheart" neckline - a classic shape of the house - was worn alongside a high waist, nipped-in with a thick buckled belt. What made it so much more than a cut-and-paste job was its looser, softer, modern shape.

The fusing of '50s with a contemporary looseness continued throughout.

A billowing "duster coat" - another retro piece - was slightly draped and hung down, warrior-like and worn with a dress with a crew-neck and sporty details.

A '50s neck bow also made a recurrent appearance alongside contrasting styles - and shows that Dell'Acqua should raid gran's wardrobe more often!