A day in town
Thos. P. Jackstraw  Updated: 2004-07-22 09:14

While busy mucking about in the country, a couple of weeks ago, I had a chance to take some time and head into town to buy some clothes. I had been struggling with washing the few things I had, after arriving in China without my luggage (but, that is another story). This town is a little place, with only a little over half a million people!

It was a nice day, with an unusual blue sky for Northern China, dotted with whisps and streaks of cumulus clouds! A good morning to stroll through town and have a look around! The morning went fast and we wandered into a small indistinct little sidewalk restaurant for lunch. The only ornamnetation to distinguish it, was a couple of red balls hanging out front.

The entrance room had two tables with a middle-aged Chinese couple sitting at one -- the other, empty. At the end of the room, a stairs to one side led to dining rooms and a door on the other side led to a larger dining area. They were separated by the cashier's counter, with a few small of tubs of the days local fresh seafood varieties sitting in front of the counter, on the floor: clams, shrimp and fish, a small chalkboard above, indicated the prices for their prepared dishes -- running from 8 to 12 RMB. Beside these, was a chair with a green keg of beer.

So we took our seats at the empty table, next to the coupe who only given us a non-descript reception when we walked in. Interestingly, they were drinking the beer, and it was green! Green beer -- and it wasn't even St. Patrick's Day! Well, it turned out, the beer was green because it had a magical Chinese herb -- chlorophyll and a bit of seaweed. In expressing our interest in the beer, as we were selecting over the menu, suddenly the couple at the next table piped in -- saying that the beer was great! Indeed it looked nice and cold in their beer mugs. So we ordered it as well; and it was fantastic -- a green, fresh, cold, delicious, pale ale!

That couple was soon very conversant. They told us this restaurant made the most famous dumplings in town. Well, dumplings it was! Green beer and dumplings! Next thing, the owner came in and sat with the couple at the other table -- aha! No wonder they said this place had the best dumplings, they were friend or relatives! Well, when the dumplings arrived, the owner started apologizing right away: these weren't her best dumplings; she had been distracted, the folding of the pastry was wrong, etc;, etc., etc. I decided after gobbling down three or four, that this place really did have fantastic dumplings -- the owner must be kidding, these dumplings were really good!

But, before we could even finish, the owner was bringing in a lot of other things to our table -- shrimp, fish, etc., all for free, she insisted. Well, I was already stuffed with dumplings and beer, and now I found myself trying to accomodate her hospitality -- groan! We really did have enough, and after some effort, we called for the bill; but No! She said today's meal was free, it was an honor to have an American come by and try her food, she was tickled; she insisted we come back again, we could pay for the next meal! With waves, smiles and all, the couple bid us good-bye and the owner escorted us out, chatting all the way -- we climbed into a motorized covered tricycle and bumped along to our next destination, to get me some new pants! I was very pleased, indeed!

We came to a little shopping area, almost a walking-pavillion, save the bicycles, motorbikes, mopeds and the like. We stopped at one shop and looked around, then came back out and stopped at one of those little ice-cart stands to buy some iced water. Across the way, a young girl was trying to take my picture with her photo-mobile phone and her friends were teasing her. So I walked over to have a look at the picture -- sure enough, she didn't have the hang of her new fancy phone; so I posed and her friend took a picture -- gosh I am so ugly: humpback, gnarly face, hand dragging to the ground and all. I could see why she wanted a photo! They all thanked me and were very pleased I came over to let them take a better picture. They were so pleased they brought some fruit from a passing farmer and gave it to me, thanking me, smiling, giving me the very comon 'thumbs-up' -- I made some new friends, indeed!

So many smiles, the 11 smile muscles of my face were getting strained again; you know, if you smile at the young folks, they are usually quick to smile right back, I love that! So we wandered into another little shop and I brought two pairs of very nice dress slacks, made in Guangzhou, 66 RMB each, very well made, light weight and even tailored to length, while we shop some more; which we did. I brought two shirts and came back. Everywhere we went, the folks were very friendly and glad to have us come in. It was quickly becoming a great day!

Next on our list was a pedicab ride to the little bookstore down the way a piece; while we didn't actually buy any books nor videos, we did enjoy browsing; and as we turned the corner, we discovered that upstairs was a foot massage therapist -- reflexology at it's best ! (and you wonder why I love China)? -- 90 minutes later, I was walking on clouds! I had fallen asleep while the little girl worked my feet over and I just couldn't keep my eyes open long enough to follow the TV show. Heaven! So, we walked around again, on our new feet, and in just a little way down the street, we happened onto a coffee shop -- upstairs from a little restaurant.

The coffee shop was a real treat! Swinging bamboo chairs, air-conditioning and Beethoven's Moonlight Serenade! They even had my favorite flavor, Columbian, I skipped right past the Blue Mountain variety from Jamaica -- it is just too potent for me. We lingered for some time there and decided to try the restaurant downstairs. Sure enough, the food was great and very reasonable. Wow! This was a grand day indeed!

So, off we went to get haircuts, another happy pedicab ride across the little foot-bridge and through a section of one of the little town's parks, where they were still constructing children's rides. We arrived at the town's most famous hair-styling shop. The girl had a blast shampooing my hair, using something called 'Energy 'shampoo? And, this came with a great scalp massage, to boot! Then I was assigned to one of those yellow-haired guys (this fellow looked older than me, in the face, but he had long yellow hair, and it usually covered over his features). This guy strapped on some strange assortment of hair-cutting tools and then started worked at the speed of 'Mr. Scissorhands'. He was dilligent and indeed an artist. I got the best hair-cut I ever had. I told him so, he wasn't really too surprised, but I was! So, bouncing out of the place with a smile on my face. You wouldn't guess what happened next.

While waiting for the rest of my party, I stepped outside the beauty saloon and suddenly, three little children came up to me, chattering away, with the biggest of smiles on their faces. I kneeled down to be at their level and asked them to repeat what they had said (I have really terrible hearing!). The fired away again, full of big smiles and a great eagerness in their eyes; but I didn't understand a thing they had said! I was sure this must be the local dialect, until I finally caught a couple of words in English! Oh, to my surprise they were talking away to me in English: they gave me their names, said how old they were, what grade they were in, and asked me what was my name, and where was I from. After a bit of explanation, I almost died laughing, they thought I must be Russian! I noticed from the edge of my vision, their Mom's were sitting nearby and looking on, so I wandered over and let them know that their kids were great and their English was impressive. Smiles, laughters and a final good-bye; we caught a final little pedi-cab back to meet-up with everyone and call it a day. I was very happy, and very ready to go back to work the next day.

A great day indeed; thank you Dezhou -- it was a great day in Town!

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