The brass band was playing, cheering spectators lined the walls of the shiplocks, damworks, and bridgeworks overhead. Confetti, balloons, and released pigeons filled the sky. And the air resounded with the strains of some of China's most famous songs and entertainers.

A passenger sailing through the gigantic shiplock

Such was the scene as the cruise ship, Princess Sheena, operated by China Regal Cruises, navigated the world's largest and most technologically sophisticated shiplocks, for the historic first passage through the new Three Gorges Dam.

The Princess Sheena was selected to represent China for this very successful premiere navigation of the new dam, a
grand and most memorable event.

The dam itself is so massive and impressive, and has so many points of interest, including a museum, that it will undoubtedly be one of the major highlights for all future travellers who choose to cruise this stretch of the Yangtze River.

When fully operational, the dam will supply in the vicinity of 11-12 per cent of China's current energy needs, and will be producing one of the cleanest, most efficient, and environmentally sensitive forms of energy on the planet. Added to that is the fact that the river will finally become a constructive tool rather than a destructive taskmaster.

And last, calculate the tremendous number of jobs, new travel destinations, and the host of new agricultural and business opportunities that could potentially be created, and you have arguably one of the most economically sound projects ever designed and built by, and for, humanity.

As the ship entered the huge locks, the doors that towered high above slowly closed behind her.

Once the boat was neatly ensconced within the lock and snugly nestled close to the wall, all eyes focused on the water as it began to drain at a rate of 5 metres a minute. Having dropped to the water level of the next lock down, the forward doors began to open like a yawning giant.

And so it was, lock after mammoth lock.

Historic journey

But for all its man-made wonder the dam is just one of several spectacular destinations along the river.

The Princess Sheena's historic journey began in Chongqing and proceeded downriver. Chongqing is an ancient mountain city, famous for its hotpot and other delectable dishes, possessing all the trappings of modern life quaintly blended with its old town charm of antiquity.

Its port facilities and road access have been notably upgraded. Brand new port facilities downstream at Fengdu, Wanzhou, Badong, and Maoping are all currently under construction.

The stability and quiet operation of the Princess Sheena was underscored by the fact that I had not realized our historic voyage had begun until I noticed the passing lights along the embankment through the panoramic windows of one of the ship's forward lounges.

Venturing up to the wheehouse, the captain said that we had been underway for almost half an hour. Movement on the river was virtually imperceptible aside from the visual factor, and the sensation, or lack thereof, was the same every time we left a port...or docked at one.

The VIP guests on-board included government officials, tourism bureau directors from several provinces, diplomats from foreign embassies, corporate heads, engineers, and model workers from several companies overseeing or affiliated with the Three Gorges Project, a host of travel professionals, and a plethora of media representatives.

On this particular cruise, Fengdu (Ghost City) was the first port of call downstream.

The several minutes ascending to the manicured and expansive temple grounds atop the peak via the open cable car were calming, refreshing and fun.

The lift rises through the quiet of the surrounding flora, abundant and verdant, replete with dancing butterflies and birdsong wafting between the rays of golden sun that pierce the forest, along with assorted other sought after sights, sounds, and scents of nature. And then there are the ghosts....

Next up, Wanzhou, where we disembarked to be entertained by a world-class acrobatic troupe, a very exciting show, followed by a leisurely stroll among the antique stalls where one might perhaps stumble across the occasional gem in the rough.

On to the Gorges! The walls of Qutang Gorge ascend rapidly as one enters. Baidicheng (White Emperor City) was formerly shrouded in high mists in the old Three Gorges. It is now more readily visible, conveying a sense of greater accessibility.

Before the waters rose, this gorge was narrower and the water rushed through it at great speed (the Bernoulli Effect or Principle, for those aspiring and accomplished physicists, even though the principle has been the subject of renewed scrutiny and debate in the last couple of years) making for a rougher ride, especially on the upriver leg.

However, now that the water level has risen and the river has widened somewhat, the pace of the water is slower and the journey much smoother.

One of the most beautiful aspects of the gorges are the "layers" of mountains trailing off into the distance like cresting waves. The waters having risen, one's vantage point is heightened, creating the feeling of having grown 50 odd metres, of having attained gianthood, with the ability to visually penetrate still deeper into the ranges behind the gorges as their silhouettes recede silently into the backdrop.

And yet the cliffs and peaks still tower above magnificently so there is no significant difference in the appearance of their great heights.

Wuxia Gorge

The bluffs of Wuxia are no less impressive. The only major difference is that the goddess peak is now nearer, again offering a better view of one of the high points of the trip and improving the experience rather than detracting from it.

Folklore suggests that the closer proximity to the goddess can improve one's fortunes in life.

The Lesser Gorges and the Shennong River still provide dramatic scenery.

With more water they are more accessible allowing one to sail closer to the shoreline. The "hanging coffin" is still hanging out of the cave.

Part of the "ancient road" - the holes in the cliff face, where presumably they stuck wooden poles and traversed from one to the next using poles as "stepping stones" along the side of the wall - has been submerged and lost, but some remnants remain. The "Pea Boats," so called because their shape resembles half of a pea pod and the passengers on-board resembling the peas, are still thriving. The boat trackers make the trip upstream and sing their songs of love...and of aching muscles from their arduous trek.

The river still runs clear and clean and the locals draw cool refreshing drinking water directly from it.

Xiling Gorge

Xiling Gorge, more than 70 kilometres of wonders, is now divided. The western Xiling is above the new dam offering some changes, and the eastern Xiling lies below, remaining much the same as before and thus contrasting "the old and the new."

There are more destinations to be described, still others that will be developed, and yet more that remain undiscovered.

But we will leave some of those secrets for travellers to discover, when they travel in China, a land of magic and mystery, to personally experience...the New Age of Yangtze River Cruising.

If you have been on the river before, the experience will be one of a subtly, not overly new but overall improved Three Gorges/Yangtze River cruise.

For those that have never been, the experience should not be missed. Come sail the mighty Yangtze River and the majestic Three Gorges.

Michael O'Brien, his Chinese name being Ou Chujiang, is the executive managing consultant to China Regal Cruises.

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