Nanjing 'yunjin' goes beyond borders

A dress made of yunjin displays in this file photo.[provided to China Daily]

For more than 1600 years, weavers in Nanjing, home to six famous ancient capitals of China, have been making brocades in a unique way.

Nanjing silk brocade, also called “yunjin”, literally meaning cloud-pattern brocade because the brocade is as beautiful as the clouds during sunset.

In 2006, Nanjing yunjin loom and weaving skills were put on the list of the first state-level intangible cultural heritage with the approval of the State Council of China. In 2009, it was selected and added to the UNESCO directory of representative human intangible cultural heritage.

A model in "yunjin" walks on the stage in Paris.[provided to China Daily]

During the 2nd Summer Youth Olympic Games held in Nanjing in 2014, Nanjing “yunjin” brocade was used as another calling card for the city, attracted worldwide attention once again. All the clothing and souvenirs used during Nanjing’s application for the 2014 Summer Youth Olympics were made of Nanjing auspicious “Yunjin” brocades.

The brocading craft has lasted more than 3,000 years in China, but "yunjin" brocade is woven with real gold, peacock feathers and silk—the most expensive raw materials of all. To promote "yunjin" brocade to the world, it is necessary to follow Western aesthetic standards, improve the patterns and colors, and combine the Eastern craft with Western culture.

According to the head of the Nanjing “yunjin” Brocade Museum Wang Baolin，relevant authorities have sought cooperation with top fashion designers in the hope that they can apply some elements of “yunjin” in their outfits, to let more people, especially foreigners, to learn about Nanjing “yunjin”.

Weavers produce yunjin brocade in a workshop. [provided to China Daily]

“Now we are working with Lawrence Xu, a Chinese designer making waves in the fashion world with his innovative style, to shift from producing works of art to producing fabric with ‘yunjin’ brocade,” Wang said. “Next, we plan to combine ‘yunjin’ brocade with jewelry to make it more practical.”

Wang said that a Norwegian, who was deeply impressed by “yunjin” brocading craft after visiting Nanjing “yunjin” Brocade Museum, had quit his job and devoted himself to publicizing Nanjing “Yunjin” brocade. According to Wang, the Norwegian held small “yunjin” brocade exhibitions in Norway for years to display the process of sericulture and filature.

“Nanjing ‘yunjin’ brocade has remained after the passing of dynasties and wars, proof of its vitality. We will pass it down and present it in a modernized way to the people at home and abroad,” Wang added.