Mr Poussin sees his chocolate as having everything to offer for an aspiring mainland urbanite who has just learned to work for the enjoyment of life, and is willing to pay a premium for it.

Zhao Hong , general manager of Debauve & Gallais' Beijing operations, said the company's market was the rich and the successful few who understood and appreciated arts, culture and the finer things.

"Most of our customers are around 35 years old, work for foreign companies or own their own business," she said. "They're definitely the elite class of the country."

Its business strategy of instilling cultural elements into the marketing campaign is apparently working. Chic social events like chocolate salons are routinely hosted where chocolate history and French culture are discussed over the tasting of fine chocolates. Participants are usually members of Beijing's top clubs or people living in upmarket residential areas.

"We've got great feedback on our social activities," Ms Zhao said.

Ms Cai says she's addicted to Debauve & Gallais chocolates, and as a regular consumer of one of the most famous chocolates in the world, she feels she's not "one of those common people".

"There's probably an iceberg tip of the world's population that can buy and taste those chocolates and I'm one of them," she said. "I feel we're a special group, different from everyday, ordinary people."

Mr Poussin echoed her sentiments. "Of course, only the elite can enjoy and will enjoy our products. Because of rarity and costs, these chocolates have always been reserved for the elite. These chocolates will never be mass product and will always be the privilege of a few."

Professor Guo said that in a country where increasing income disparities translated into stratified consumption patterns, consumption had increasingly become a mark of legitimate membership in - or exclusion from - certain social groups.

"Luxury goods can readily convert into markers of social status," he said. "They make middle-class urbanites able to feel effective as elite members of the society."

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