Soul in the leaves
Yet, no ritual can exist without its material foundation. Behind the gestures, philosophies and systems of Chaozhou gongfu cha lies a single leaf shaped by mountain climate, soil and human labor — a tea that gives the tradition its aroma, structure and soul.
For Li Xuan, a national senior tea maker with more than 20 years in the industry, the story begins with Fenghuang (Phoenix) Dancong — the indispensable tea variety of Chaozhou gongfu cha.
Grown in Fenghuang town in Chao'an district, with Fenghuang Mountain as its core production area, Phoenix Dancong is both the material foundation and aromatic soul of the tradition.
Li has long studied its production and is now applying to become an inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage of Phoenix Dancong tea-making techniques in Guangdong. She apprenticed with Chen Xiangbai, an inheritor of Chaozhou gongfu cha.
Phoenix Dancong's most striking feature is its aroma. "Many people fall in love with it after just one cup," she says.
Known as the "perfume of tea", Phoenix Dancong is celebrated for its complex and ever-changing fragrance. "It has extremely intricate aroma classifications — rich and captivating," Li says.
Its longevity sets it apart as well. While many teas lose their fragrance after repeated infusions — especially under the demanding 21-step gongfu cha process — Phoenix Dancong continues to release a lingering aroma even after multiple brews.
"Local people treasure Phoenix Dancong tea, and its production is carried out with great respect and care," Li says.
When she learned tea-growing on the mountain from veteran farmers, she was repeatedly reminded that Fenghuang Mountain's climate, water and soil together make such tea possible.
Tea, Li observes, permeates everyday life in Chaozhou. "If you walk through the streets and alleys, you'll see people drinking tea everywhere."
She once saw a roasted chestnut vendor tending his stall with a charcoal stove and a full set of utensils beside him, pausing between batches to take a few sips.
Ritual, she notes, is never mere formality. Although only three cups are used, they are rinsed with boiling water after each round so that every guest drinks from a clean cup.
"These ritualized habits are extremely important. They naturally shape daily life," Li says.
Many matters in Chaozhou are resolved over tea.
"Making tea takes time — you boil water, warm the teapot, cups and utensils, and wait. During this process, people calm down. By the time the tea is ready, many conflicts have already softened," she adds.
For Li, this reflects the deeper philosophy behind gongfu cha. Closely aligned with Confucian thought, it emphasizes harmony, equality and order. Though the steps may appear simple and are performed with ease by locals, she stresses that this fluency comes from years of practice.
Beyond a daily habit, gongfu cha also represents regional spirit. "Gongfu means investing time and effort," Li says.
"No step can be careless — whether in growing tea or brewing it. The process reflects the meticulousness and dedication of the Chaozhou people."
She has observed that gongfu cha is increasingly embraced by younger generations. As many Chaozhou people venture out into the wider world, they carry their tea culture with them.
"The brewing method is ritualistic and distinctive, and young people are receptive to it," she says.
"This kind of cultural transmission requires time — gradual promotion, familiarity, and deepening understanding.
"In modern life, people face intense pressure and a fast pace. Being able to sit down and slowly enjoy Chaozhou gongfu cha is good for both the body and mind. Promoting and sharing the tea culture is, in itself, a very good thing."
Back in the Xiangqiao classroom, the students quietly lifted their cups, savoring the warm, fragrant brew they had prepared themselves. Each sip carried the care, precision and patience that Ye had taught them — a small, living embodiment of Chaozhou gongfu cha, now passing gently into the next generation.
