From tourist to local: A real retreat

Lin Qi finds authentic island life in the labyrinth of Haikou's old streets, capturing a leisurely travel pace.

When you start to feel bored or overwhelmed by a hectic holiday itinerary, hurrying from one place to another, and just fancy spending a couple of relaxing, aimless days in a seaside resort, Haikou in Hainan province comes highly recommended.

Located at the northern end of Hainan, the provincial capital faces the mainland across the Qiongzhou Strait. The area keeps travelers happily sheltered from overcrowded tourist groups and immerses them in the locals' relaxed pace of life.

Travelers to Haikou need not worry about falling into tourist traps. Instead, they will be warmly welcomed into the locals' everyday routines, such as joining residents at their favorite breakfast spots.

One such place is the narrow, busy Yixing Street at the end of which sits Xitian Temple, tucked away in one of Haikou's expansive old neighborhoods. The temple was first built in the 16th century as a shrine to Wang Zuo (1428-1512), a reputed personage in the community, where locals paid tribute to him for a safe and smooth sea voyage before setting out.

These days people come not only to worship Wang but also to begin their morning refreshments. People's appetites are awakened by a variety of delicacies from all over Hainan, available at eateries and takeaway stands lining both sides of the street.

Popular specialties sometimes sell out early, including Danzhou milan rice noodles, named after a city to the southwest of Haikou where the noodles originate. The boiled noodles are often topped with meat, vegetables, pickles and other savory ingredients.

Another Danzhou delicacy, baimo, is a must-try, says Fu Zhanchuan, a local who frequents the street when he needs to satisfy his appetite. Baimo is a creamy rice cake usually placed in a large bowl and topped with salty seasonings and sliced spring onions.