THE ONLY WAY IS UP FOR ZHAO

The night after Zhao Yicheng defied gravity on a 15-meter climbing wall in South China's tropical Baisha county, the 15-year-old made a subtle yet symbolic gesture: changing his social media username from "Not Changing My Name Until 4.6 Seconds" to a simple set of initials.

This quiet reset followed two staggering climbs of 4.66 and 4.65 seconds in one afternoon — unofficially faster than the 4.74-second men's speed climbing world record set by American Sam Watson at last year's Paris Olympics.

"I just had to see what the view looked like from 4.6 seconds," said Zhao, steeling himself with the conviction he could match it after seeing Watson clock 4.66s in training just three days earlier.

However, the view, much like Zhao's meteoric rise, remains unofficial. The trial event for China's national team on March 26 was not sanctioned by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), leaving his times unrecognized.

Zhao's journey from a bookish Suzhou schoolboy to "spiderman" began with a playdate gone vertical. At age five, a friend dragged him to a climbing gym, and what started as weekly hobby sessions soon consumed his weekends. By nine, he was podium-hopping at regional youth events.

"When I was younger, there weren't many rivals. I was always the fastest," Zhao recalled of his early competitions. "Yet, being the fastest didn't always mean winning. My mindset wasn't sharp enough back then. But, losing taught me more than winning."

The real crossroads came at 13.

A top student at Suzhou's elite Mudu School, Zhao faced a choice between academics and athletics after winning the 2023 IFSC Youth World Championships in Seoul.

"I had good grades," he admitted. "But, sunlight on the wall felt brighter than any classroom."

With support from his parents, in September 2023, Zhao relocated to Shanghai to undertake a semiprofessional regimen: mornings studying mathematics and afternoons defying physics.

The 2023-24 winter camp saw his times plummet from 5.4s to 4.99s, breaking speed climbing's hallowed "sub-five" barrier — a feat likened to the 10-second milestone in the 100m sprint.

"I'm someone who loves climbing with strong competitors. I thrive on competition," Zhao said of his racing ethos.

The breakthrough came in May 2024, ahead of the Olympic Qualifier Series in Shanghai.

Training alongside international athletes during their warm-ups, Zhao studied world-class climbers and channeled their energy into his own ascent.

While some athletes chased the "sub-five" milestone for seasons, Zhao achieved it after just one year of professional training.

Veteran climbers marveled at the awe-inspiring youngster. An 18-year-old Watson, who had already reset climbing's benchmarks several times by then, took nervous note.

"I'm very excited about the sport's future," he posted on Chinese social media platform RedNote. "But save some gold medals for the rest of us!"

Even the brightest ascents, though, cast momentary shadows. At the 2024 Chinese Climbing League opener in September, Zhao finished fifth after a quarterfinal slip, despite feeling "in good form, even mentally sharper than others".

"It (the mistake) might have looked random, but I think there was a mental block," he recalled. "Even without pushing my limit, I tensed up. I knew I was faster than my opponent, but I feared my own errors more than anything they could do."

"Fifth place rattled me. I hadn't tasted failure for so long. You need to learn how to fall before you can fight your way back up."

Zhao's response came this March in Baisha. After his first full winter training camp with the national team — initially focused on strength, before shifting to climbing drills — he emerged transformed.

"This winter brought major strength gains. Full-body power improved my movement execution," Zhao explained.

"The team's environment pushed me to train smarter. The nation's best climbers are here, and every session demands your absolute best. We push each other, but also enjoy the grind."

The results stunned. Two runs, two records, and a signature midair fist pump. His first post-winter competition saw an improvement from 4.9s to 4.6s.

"I knew this level was possible," said Zhao, who had hit 4.7 seconds in training.

"After reviewing footage with coaches, we found areas to improve. I thought 4.6 seconds was achievable, but not this soon. Today's performance surprised even myself."

Yet the boy, who scales walls faster than most sprint flats, remains grounded in earthly rhythms.

Between training sessions, he devours books on history, escapes into sci-fi epics and has even delved into a biography of Kobe Bryant.

"Reading helps me quiet my mind and think independently — it sheds some of my restlessness," Zhao said. "Climbing isn't just physical. It's a mental game. Without active thinking, you can't reach the top level in any sport."

For now, international arenas have to wait, as age rules bar him from the 2025 global circuit — a delay he embraces. "One year of preparation is good. It will make me mentally stronger and more consistent. Next year, I'll compete internationally in peak form, striving to win honors for my country."

"The next Olympics are over three years away. Four-and-a-half seconds isn't my ultimate goal. I'll chase faster times. It's a milestone, not the finish line," Zhao said.

True to his word, he rebranded again, just one week after stripping his profile name to mere initials. The new name"4.5toZYCfe" seems like a digital countdown to his next conquest.

Somewhere, Watson's clock ticks. But right here, right now, there's only a teen, a wall and milliseconds melting like wax.

Xinhua