During the Maison & Objet exhibition — a prestigious home decor expo that took place in January in Paris — industry professionals and fashion enthusiasts from around the world were eager to see the latest fashion trends.
One stall constantly attracted a gaggle of curious onlookers. Inside, Gesang Zhuoma, dressed in traditional Tibetan attire, deftly manipulated wool with her fingers, weaving rare fabrics on a handloom. She had never traveled far from her home, but confidently showcased the intangible cultural heritage technique of spinning Tibetan pulu (a type of woolen fabric) on behalf of Chinese brand Sandriver.
The brand's success can be attributed to the determination of its founder Guo Xiuling, who has over 30 years' experience in the cashmere industry.
Born in 1971 in the Inner Mongolia autonomous region, Guo initially worked for an original equipment manufacturer serving international luxury brands. During this time, she observed premium Chinese cashmere being transformed into luxury products sold worldwide by foreign brands.
"Despite China supplying 75 percent of the world's cashmere raw materials, there was no Chinese cashmere brand leading the international market," Guo said.
Determined to utilize her industry experience, she jettisoned her high-profile former business partners. In 2012, Guo established Sandriver in Shanghai, which from the outset set its sights on the international market.
In August of the same year, the company hosted its inaugural fashion show at the Roppongi Hills Mori Tower in Tokyo.
"The pressure was immense, but I always believed that as long as we adhered to our philosophy and dedicated ourselves to product making, we would gain global recognition," Guo said.
After that, Sandriver participated in Paris Fashion Week for nine consecutive years and showcased its products at various international exhibitions. With its unique designs and exceptional quality, it secured a place at Le Bon Marche in Paris, becoming the first Chinese brand to feature at the prestigious department store under the LVMH Group.
Guo said competing on the global stage alongside Western luxury brands, many of which were once her clients, presented both challenges and growth opportunities. "This journey not only accelerated our brand's evolution and increased its impact, but also underscored the importance of infusing traditional Chinese culture, intangible heritage, and our distinct expertise into the global market," she said.
Specializing in cashmere, Sandriver incorporates heritage techniques into its products.
"I was deeply immersed in textile technology research in Germany, but I chose to leave that behind. Returning to my origins, I refocused on our intangible cultural heritage and Chinese legacy. It troubled me to witness these cultural treasures being overlooked," Guo said.
The Sandriver team has made great efforts in this area. For example, it took nine years to revive the Inner Mongolia's hand-felt technology.
"My childhood memories of Mongolian hand-felt were vivid. When I saw Japanese designers cherishing it, I felt compelled to revive and pass on this technique," Guo said. Since being launched, the cashmere hand-felt and silk-integrated products have been highly sought after in international markets.
Sandriver is also actively nurturing a new generation of craftsmen. Guo has traveled to Xizang autonomous region numerous times to teach local women textile techniques and pattern designs.
"I brought approximately 300 Tibetan women to Shanghai, taught them textile skills, and guided them on museum visits to grasp market dynamics," said Guo.
Today, Sandriver operates over 30 overseas partner stores in countries including Germany, France, and Japan, and has more than 10 outlets in China.
