Regional holiday rituals leave lasting memories
Mouth-watering offerings mark a festival where family reunions and taste buds take priority, Li Yingxue reports.
Chang's most vivid memories of Spring Festival foods are the hearty noodle-based snacks like sticky fried cake and fried noodle fish that evoke the flavors of his hometown.
"In the south, people make crispy pastries for the Chinese New Year; in the northeast, we also have the tradition to make crispy foods, but in a different way," Chang, 47, says.
His version of crispy foods is simpler than Southern varieties: Dough is mixed with hot oil before frying, creating a crunchier texture. Among his favorite dishes is fried noodle fish, made from cornmeal and flour fried in hot oil. "We shape the dough into thumb-width strips and fry them. The shape resembles small fish found in our rivers, so we call it noodle fish," he says. "It symbolizes prosperity and abundance."
Chang also highlights the tradition of sticky fried cake, a glutinous rice treat filled with red sugar or red bean paste and pan-fried. Unlike other northeastern regions where similar treats are steamed, his hometown prefers to pan-fry them. "Making sticky fried cake at Chinese New Year symbolizes health and good fortune. In winter, families make and share this dish, bringing people closer together," Chang notes.
Chang's culinary roots also trace back to his family's tradition of making saqima, a Manchu snack. "My great-grandfather was a chef. I grew up eating his food," he recalls.
