Intimate, busy bistros bite into nation's restaurant industry

Fresh interpretations

In October, A Big Bite food ranking unveiled its annual list of China's best bistros. The panel of judges — comprising sommeliers, food writers, and wine experts — evaluated the bistros on their cuisine, beverages, ambience, and originality.

Thirty-three bistros made the list, with nine from Beijing, including Bistro Strong, and thirteen from Shanghai, among them Cila and San Bai Bei. Other winners hailed from Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Hangzhou, Zhejiang province, and Chengdu.

Food writer and panelist Li Weihang said modern Chinese bistros are less about strict definitions and more about creative expression. "Initially, people thought of bistros as Western dining with wine," Li said. "But today, the concept has become more fluid, adapting to the diverse needs of diners from various backgrounds."

What remains consistent are low-alcohol wines, appealing dishes, and a strong sense of individuality, she said.

The rise of bistros, Li suggested, reflects shifts in urban lifestyles. In cities like Shanghai, where workdays often stretch past 7:30 pm, bistros offer a relaxed space for social gatherings without the heaviness of a full meal.

Another driving force, she said, is the resonance of Chinese flavors. The casual format of bistros has encouraged younger restaurateurs to reimagine traditional Chinese dishes. Li pointed to San Bai Bei in Shanghai as a prime example.

"Their menu updates frequently and their portions are intentionally small," Li said.

"It solves a long-standing problem with traditional Chinese dining — large servings that don't suit small groups."

The bistro's innovative takes on Ningbo cuisine have made it a popular choice for diners across different age groups and social circles.

The first San Bai Bei opened in Ningbo, Zhejiang, in 2019, and the restaurant quickly expanded to Shanghai, where it now operates two popular eateries.