Four decades of change: My journey witnessing China's transformation

I had few preconceptions about China apart from the Great Wall; the iconic portrait of Mao Zedong displayed on Tiananmen Gate, images of Hong Kong's busy narrow streets. However, curious to see what China was really like, the transcontinental railway journey from Scotland in 1987 became a thought-provoking, learning experience. The country, particularly its dry, lightly populated north, bore no resemblance to what I had imagined. I saw a country far less developed than my own.

In 1987, China's technology seemed intermediate; few cars but many bicycles; people possessed limited luxuries, if any. However, to visit Beijing's historic attractions such as the Forbidden City and beautiful Summer Palace have remained as premium moments of travel. To stand on the Great Wall, north of Beijing, surrounded by many Chinese people wanting to talk to me, unforgettable! Despite the obvious differences between our lifestyles, I found the people incredibly friendly. I felt very safe despite my lack of Chinese language skills, indeed regularly hearing, in English, "Welcome to China".

I continued south to subtropical Guangzhou before the final stage of that journey by train to Hong Kong. It was from the train I saw and realized China was embarking on a transition that would change the country forever. Just before crossing into Hong Kong there was then a small, but modern city. It was Shenzhen where the transformational policy of Deng Xiaoping's reform and opening-up was underway. How China would change, I could never have imagined the scale I would witness in later years!

In 1992, I returned to China, on a one year educational exchange program between my provisional government and Guangdong province. I would be based in Guangzhou, the city noticeably changed since 1987. Increasingly international, I could feel a sense of dynamism, of motivation in the population.

That impression was enhanced by my students at the college where I taught. Their philosophy simply was that if they worked hard, they would be successful. If they were successful, this would also help China become successful! They knew and understood that working together the country could be lifted toward a modern society. Over subsequent years I would witness and record this happening.

Back in Scotland, I was regularly invited to talk both to live audiences and on popular radio programs. My words always finished with "Watch what is happening in China, it will surely transform into a world leader!"

My photography of southern China's landscape, accompanied by beautiful traditional erhu sounds of "Butterfly Lovers" featured in talks and exhibitions. This brought positive comments from people who had never previously realized how beautiful China was. I then explored parts of Guangxi and Hainan, which I referred to as my "Heaven on Earth".

After that year in Guangdong, there was one desire, to return to China whenever possible. My dream to travel, to discover more of China, to record what I would see with my camera. A photograph could be worth a thousand words if it can capture attention.

I knew it was important to go inland away from the "comfort zones" of eastern coastal cities, to experience so much more that China offered. Such travels carried me through amazing, diverse areas, both physical and human. I headed by boat along the Yangtze River; travelled along mountainous railways to Yunnan province and up to unique Lijiang, home to the Naxi ethnic group; through Northwest China to Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region; reaching Xizang, the "Roof of the World"; visiting fast moving cities such as Shanghai; appreciating the tranquility of Suzhou's canals and so much more, including Qufu, birthplace of Confucius. Everywhere I went, my camera, my companion, recorded so many precious moments that I later shared through talks and exhibitions.

In between such extensive explorations, my attention was increasingly focusing on Beijing. In 1987 I spent a few days in the capital. However, I wanted to return, to discover more. In 1994, before heading southwest to Chengdu, I stayed in a hotel in a hutong neighborhood near Yonghegong, (Lama Temple). This became the Beijing that fired my passion, experiencing the every day lives of ordinary people. I appreciated many sounds of the alleys; dining in local restaurants and photographing bustling scenes.

It was there I started realizing the importance of Beijing's historical geography. The relationship of the older city to the Central Axis; the unique layout of alleys; location of the Forbidden City at the heart of Beijing, symbolically the heart of China.

Increasingly invited to write, my articles regularly appearing in publications such as Beijing This Month were helping international visitors appreciate the city's many attractions while understanding something of its history. Such writing and photography encouraged me to continue walking or cycling into many almost hidden corners of Beijing.

This led in 2004 to be invited by Radio Beijing to produce a daily feature, ‘Bruce in Beijing'. I would walk and talk every day about the city, particularly many of its unique features I had discovered. That broadcast in English lasted over 12 years.

Meanwhile, I was escorting visitors, including the mayor of Glasgow, my Scottish hometown, on walking tours of older Beijing. More recently my passion for the city would result in several domestic television productions where I would introduce and talk about aspects of the city such as historic Zhonggulou (Bell and Drum Tower) and the beautiful Shichahai Lake.

Beijing, of course, has transformed into a modern, international capital, particularly since hosting the 2008 Olympics. For me, it has been incredible to watch, to record the city's progress over the past 37 years and particularly to have lived through many important moments.

While working with Radio Beijing I travelled in August 2008 with my colleagues on one of the first high-speed trains connecting Beijing with Tianjin. Reaching up to 350km/h speed was an incredible experience. Since then I have watched with fascination the growth of China's high-speed rail network now reaching around 44,000 km. Last year, 2023, I traveled by high-speed train from Beijing to Hong Kong in only 8 hours 31 minutes - a journey that took over two days in 1987. It's truly incredible; I never imagined it could happen so quickly. I had been invited to Hong Kong to give illustrated talks on my travels across China, including Tianjin.

Tianjin, sits only 30 minutes by train south from Beijing. Its historic architecture and close relationship with the Grand Canal and the Haihe River have encouraged considerable photography, resulting to several exhibitions in that city.

Presently, I am back in my Scottish homeland but still very busy with China. Every day I work on my extensive archives, both photographs and writings. Also I try regularly to comment on international online media about China and of many little known or understood aspects of the country.

Over the past 40 years, I have spent more than half of that time living in China. I am fascinated by the culture, landscapes, the people, and every aspect of life here. During my years in China, I have witnessed remarkable achievements and transformative changes across various areas. The economy has developed rapidly, and people's lives have improved significantly. It surprises me even today, how little knowledge there is in or even interest about China. With my experiences I hope to let people see and appreciate the land I came to love and why a Scotsman would live for so many years in a country so different to his own.

China will always remain a major factor in my life. I do hope to return, to continue documenting more about the country and its progress.