Culinary connections across the Strait

"Taiwan cuisine is basically a fusion of flavors from the Chinese mainland, particularly from southern provinces, which was later modified and transformed into Taiwan's unique style," explained Lin.

Having lived in Beijing for nearly seven years, Lin often craves beef noodles, a dish that he eats every time he is back in Taiwan. It is a common Chinese dish that has long served as a culinary bridge connecting generations across the Taiwan Strait.

In his search for temporary solace from homesickness, Lin has discovered subtle differences and similarities in this familiar dish across the Strait, delving even deeper into the cultural significance behind it during a special cooking lesson.

"Beef noodles first emerged in the nostalgic military dependents' village in Taiwan, where most of the former soldiers from the Chinese mainland lived," explained Wang Junhong, a chef at Din Tai Fung, a global chain of Chinese restaurants. "Initially a clear broth-based dish, it evolved with the addition of Chinese medicinal herbs, resulting in its distinct dark color. Unlike the mainland version with beef chunks or thin slices, the Taiwan adaptation features beef ribs."

Wang Junhong attributed these culinary adaptations to the diverse backgrounds of the military dependents. Growing up in the village himself, he emphasized his personal connection to the community.

"It felt like a big family. They were all like my uncles and grandfathers," said Wang Junhong. "One of them, who was from Xi'an (the capital of Northwest China's Shaanxi province), used to make noodles for me. To recollect that familial warmth, I pursued a career in culinary arts."

Wang Licheng pointed out that while culinary traditions naturally evolve over time, the emotional connection they create remains strong.

"Cooking is a tangible expression of our heritage. While they modified the beef noodles from the Chinese mainland, I'm certain that you have also made changes as you recreate the taste in your family. Perhaps your apprentice and our next generation will inherit and craft their own versions of the dish from their memories."