Inheritor innovates to keep cloth relevant

To produce a fine cloth, a xiabu craftsperson has to weave thread up and down over 2,400 times on a 1.5-inch-wide loom, with both hands and feet working in smooth coordination. This is the most important and complex part of the whole process. "Although it's time-consuming and labor-intensive, we need to recognize that xiabu is a long-term necessity in the marketplace," Ma said.

For over a decade, the young inheritor has been experimenting with xiabu to find a way to broaden its use. As a result, she has pioneered designs that combine the fabric with various materials such as rice paper, silver, leather, embroidery and folding fans, and has applied for a few patents.

Her design of a notebook made of ramie cloth won the top prize in an innovation product design competition at the 54th National Crafts Trade Fair in 2019.

Xiabu has become well-known and utilized in the modern fashion design industry. Four years ago, Ma was pleasantly surprised to find a skirt made of ramie at an international flagship store. In recent years, several fashion week events and individual stage shows partly in need of xiabu have placed orders with her.

"Xiabu, a highly versatile material, is suitable for the entire modern industrial chain," she said.

According to the local cultural and tourism commission, Rongchang xiabu has been made into more than 1,000 products, including dresses, suits, decorative paintings, embroidery, bedding, tablecloths, towels and bags. "Our products are especially favored by the petty bourgeoisie who pursue a higher quality of life, and the consumer group is becoming increasingly younger," Ma said.

Now the company is concentrating on developing products that further enrich people's lives, such as decor that embellishes living spaces. "The use of xiabu in home decor is also very promising," Ma said, adding that some interior designers from China, Japan and South Korea use her company's linen to create high-end, minimalistic Southeast-Asian style home decor. They prefer longer-lasting xiabu over rattan weaving, she said.

Because it's easy to clean, the fabric is also suitable for making table flags, coasters and place mats. It can be also made into Zen products, such as meditation clothing and cushions. Ma's company is currently in talks with a Buddhist temple foundation to develop such products.

Over the past year, Ma has given school children across Chongqing lectures on the intangible cultural heritage and its aesthetic appeal, and has held various study activities.