Old Man'e and the tea: Many flavors of transformation

Prior to their success, families could barely make ends meet if they only grew tea. "When I was young, fresh tea leaves were only three or four yuan per kilo. Tea-planting was not more profitable than growing vegetables," said Yan Kan'er, a 36-year-old villager. Yan is a common surname in the village.

About 20 years back, his family had about seven hectares of tea plantation, and still had to grow other crops to survive.

Now more than 40 preliminary tea-processing facilities have been built in the village. Tea makers use smart machines for many processes, such as picking out weeds and withered leaves, and yet still retain traditional methods, in which tea-cultivating masters brew leaves in giant iron pots heated by firewood.

Rural revamp

Yan Yanjiao, sturdy and deeply tanned, spends the day checking on tea plantations to learn about output, and posts livestream sessions at night on his Douyin account, "Old Man'e 75", which is also the address of his home. He has over 20,000 followers.

Yan was elected village Party chief in 2019 after working for three years in the tea business.

"After graduation, I sold fast food, fruit and jewelry, and I did not want to come back to the mountains. I did not return until 2016," he said.

Yan studied ways to make tea water more clear by adopting certain processes. The subtle change in taste was welcomed by buyers.

"On one hand, it is the supply side. I need to guide fellow villagers to plant well, with proper watering, and refrain from using fertilizers. The other is the demand side. It is important to understand what tea drinkers need," he said.

Having yet to develop a similar savviness in livestream marketing, farmer Yan Jiaoxiang still relies on word-of-mouth among his clients. "When producing top-quality leaves, I mail some to my clients to try out and if they like it, they will buy it," he said.

Though this year's spring drought slashed output, sales have not been affected, he said. "The average price is about 800 yuan per kilo. Not bad," he added.

Considered a global mecca of tea growing, Yunnan's tea industry generated 107 billion yuan in output in 2021. According to a plan, by 2025, the province's tea planting area will be stabilized at around 500,000 hectares, with an annual production of 500,000 metric tons. It plans to gradually expand its green and organic tea plantations.

Despite the fact that tea leaves can be picked almost year round, villagers are advised to skip summer picking season to let the plantations "rest", said Yan Yanjiao.

Xinhua