Yet the real lure of Dingling is that, from 1956-58, the underground sections were excavated, which, for better or worse, allows visitors like myself to go down into the tomb. Making my way down 40 meters of stairs, I reached the underground section, which is comprised of white stone and jade halls, containing marble thrones and replicas of the emperor's coffin among other remarkable relics. Despite the claustrophobic nature of the halls, as a feat of engineering and a unique historical and visual experience, they are absolutely worth a visit.
As impressive as it is to witness, the story surrounding the excavation and its repercussions are just as fascinating. Due to a number of issues, the excavation of the tomb was largely mishandled, leading to the damage and destruction of the bodies of the emperor and empresses and a large part of the more than 3,000 relics that were buried there (replicas and some of those that survived can be seen in exhibitions in the buildings above).
The dig was meant to lead to a further excavation of the Changling tomb, but the failed nature of the experiment led to a new policy not to excavate any historical site except for rescue purposes, and since then, no proposal to open a historical tomb has been approved in the country.
Modern archaeologists around the world have learned from the mistakes made by their predecessors, knowing that there is a fine line to tread between respecting the history of our ancestors and allowing today's public to experience and explore these ancient monuments and relics. There will always be the argument that some things are better left buried, and whether or not that is the case, Dingling offers us a glimpse deep into the life, or afterlife, of a Chinese emperor. And due to the inadequacy of its excavation, it remains one of the few places we have the chance to do so, making it a truly unique experience.
