"Shanghai has definitely got the most vibrant dining scene in China. No other Chinese city even comes close, and this is largely because consumers in Shanghai care more about their food and are willing to spend on fine dining," says Mo.
The sophistication of the Chinese restaurant scene has also become more pronounced. Take for instance T'ang Court, a Cantonese restaurant within Langham Hotel, which was the only dining establishment in the city to be awarded three Michelin stars in the inaugural Michelin Guide Shanghai two years ago. Also, of the seven establishments that were awarded two stars, four were Chinese restaurants.
But the guide had its fair share of criticism, with many pointing out how the majority of Michelin star recipients were Cantonese dining establishments. Some food experts have explained that this could likely be due to the fact that Cantonese cuisine is the most prevalent Chinese food that foreigners are familiar with. After all, the majority of those who emigrated from China in the past were from Guangdong.
Shanghainese chef Anthony Zhao explains that this could also be due to the nature of Cantonese food.
"I think non-Chinese diners also find the flavors of Cantonese food to be more palatable. Shanghainese food is too sweet for many. Sichuan or Hunan food, on the other hand, is too spicy," he says.
Others have argued that the Michelin Guide judges restaurants based on values that are somewhat irrelevant in China. While Western food guides usually focus on creativity and individuality, Chinese cuisine is centered on tradition.
The issue of creativity, too, is highly subjective, says food writer Christopher St Cavish.
