Can you give a tangible example of how weather is changing your approach?
For example, with the 2016 vintage, we had an early spring, so the grapes grew early, and then there was a heavy spring frost. In the past, even though we had spring frost, the winter had been long, so the plant hadn't grown. Now when the spring frost arrives, it's damaging the grapes earlier on.
We see grapes mature sooner – by the end of August or early September – so you harvest in better, drier conditions, and bring grapes into the cellar in better condition. So it's good, but also bad.
And we aren't certified, but we are organic. We're going more towards this high-value environmental quality with bees, et cetera… It's more work because you have to go into the fields more often and need more people. But it's rewarding – and you can't go back.
Every single grape is now pampered, like couture.
Yes, but it's not only a demand from consumers. It's also now a philosophy that winemakers are developing and believing in. That's because we want to leave our children land and grapes in good health. So sometimes it's difficult and more labour-intensive, but it's worth every moment. It's very tangible and it's very dynamic, and it does encourage people to go further and explore new techniques.
What are the biggest misconceptions people have about Chablis?
Some people still think Chablis isn't made from the chardonnay grape, though it's fewer today. That's still the biggest misconception. Chablis is 100% chardonnay and we cannot use anything else. That's what makes it so French – and so awkward. [laughs]
One priority of this visit is to promote some of the lesser-known Chablis appellations. Which would be your top three?
Rully, Saint-Bris and Saint-Aubin.
Do the Chinese own any vineyards in Chablis?
Not right now – the only thing they own near Chablis is the football club at Auxelles [AJ Auxerre]. That's it. For Chinese people, the colour red is very important. They appreciate Chablis, but they aren't yet super-interested in it.
Could you perhaps sell the drink on its golden color?
Yes! We like that. The golden gates of Burgundy – after all, you enter Burgundy via Chablis.
"We want to leave our children land and grapes in good health. So sometimes it's difficult and more labour-intensive, but it's worth every moment. It's very tangible and it's very dynamic".
