Poetry in motion

The renowned haute couture house of Poiret is revived through a modern tribute to its namesake founder

Influenced by Eastern cultures, French fashion designer Paul Poiret liberated women from the corset at the beginning of the 20th century. For his namesake maison Poiret's autumn/winter 2018 collection, the relaunched brand's artistic director, Yiqing Yin, blends playfulness, movement and personal expression. In this collection, dresses and coats reprise the cocoon shape for which the house's founder was famed. A dress can be belted or loose, or worn back to front. Pieces such as oversized knits, shawl collars, harem trousers and Greenland lambskin coats express Yin's pursuits towards minimalism and are imbued with a leisurely spirit. There are a variety of colours, with the classic ivory, grey and black alongside canary yellow and beyond. The concept of the"infinite" skirt can be found in the wrap jumpsuit, in jacquard or liquid silk. Paul Poiret was renowned for the "robe de minute", a tunic made of two simple rectangles – and the industrial-inspired jewels and heels in this collection echo his groundbreaking designs – a fitting tribute to a master of haute couture.