Vanguardian Angel

Innovative Dutch designer Iris van Herpen continues to explore what tomorrow's fashion may look like

Since starting her own label in 2007, Dutch designer Iris van Herpen has been presenting her complex fashion theory through wildly progressive, boundary-pushing creations. In Paris, she released her couture collection for autumn/winter 2018 under the banner of the science-themed Syntopia. Exploring the relationship between the organic and the inorganic, and developments in biology and technology, Van Herpen combines traditional weaving techniques with cutting-edge digitally designed weaving on coats and dresses. Laser-cut wool is woven with leather through parametric file technology and the Mimesis mini corset dresses showcase the soundwave patterns of birds, using unusual materials such as mylar, black cotton, red organza and transparent black acrylic sheets. For the show, Van Herpen collaborated with artists Lonneke Gordijn and Ralph Nauta of Studio Drift, who created a spatial kinetic installation called In 18 Steps, which consists of 18 delicate glass wings that abstractly represent all the different stages of flight.