Koji's cups run over for the sake of perfection

When you enter Koji, the first thing you notice is the exquisite handcrafted wine cups exhibited on the shelves－rendered from glass, porcelain and pottery.

They are all brought from Japan by the co-owner of Koji, Kazuyuki Tanioka, to allow Beijing's gastronomes to experience authentic Japanese culture and refinement while enjoying fine Japanese cuisine.

Located in the Wangjing area, the new restaurant is run by Tanioka and his Chinese wife as their second venture alongside Toya in a drive-in cinema in the capital.

The collection of cups makes sense when you learn that the eatery's moniker, Koji, is a nod to renowned Japanese porcelain master, Koji Inoue－in fact, some of those on display are original examples of Inoue's work.

"If we compare Japanese cuisine to a woman, then the good utensils are like her clothes," says Tanioka, who believes the consummate vessel not only adds a delicacy to proceedings that is typically Japanese, but also provides a visual feast for foodies.

"Porcelain has developed alongside Japanese cuisine, and Inoue has created countless unique porcelain pieces with his masterful skill and perception."

Koji provides Japanese set menus, also known as kaiseki, starting with a platter of assorted appetizers, including steamed pumpkin, scallop with apricot and tamagoyaki (Japanese rolled omelet).