Mykonos Muse

These were the days of a veritable bohemian rhapsody on Mykonos.

For years, people have been saying Mykonos is over; too crowded, too commercial, the old hands grumble. But this feisty little island, only one-fifth the size of Ibiza, is more popular than ever. The old nudist beaches are now smart beach clubs serving wagyu tartare and designer swimwear; fishing boats have been replaced by super yachts, free camping by butlers at the beach. Traditional tavernas have given way to international A-list chains like Hakkasan.

Yet, despite the flurry of new villas and hotels that has followed on hard into the 21st century, Mykonos has preserved its character and history, partly because the whole island is protected by a preservation order - each new building must comply with the vernacular style - and partly because the scent of jasmine still lingers in the air.

The honeyed sands and pure-as-gin sea are as postcard-perfect as ever. Monumental rocks and colossal cacti still sprout from the sun-burnt hills. Beyond the neon-bright boutiques of Matoyianni, the Fifth Avenue of Mykonos, you might spy an old lady quietly stitching lace in a flowery nightdress. And if you get up early enough, you'll find leathery men with impressive whiskers philosophizing on the port.

Past, present and future, Mykonos, with its high-energy hedonism and illimited mindset, will somehow never go out of fashion.