Letting simplicity take center stage

Ettlinger says that the cuisine of southern France is simpler and more casual than in the rest of the country, abandoning heavy ingredients such as butter and cream in favor of fresh basil, ripe tomatoes and other Mediterranean ingredients.

"I only have one set menu back in my restaurant, but the items on it change every day because it is dependent on the ingredients I find at the market. The ingredients you buy on a warm day are different to those you get on a cold day," he says.

"Spring is my favorite season to cook. There are so many fresh veggies like asparagus, fresh peas, baby carrots, and fresh garlic that are so tasty, but not strong. In winter, however, the garlic is heavy and strong," he adds.

Ettlinger points out that there is every reason the dining scene in Beijing can be on the same level as the one in France, saying the quality and freshness of ingredients here are equally good. There is, however, one problem that could prevent this from happening - the way market vendors store their produce.

"Most people don't have a proper way to store their good produce. Everything should be stored indoor at a regulated temperature around 15 degrees. In this way, you can keep it much longer. If the temperature exceeds 25 degrees, you cannot keep the produce."

He also has words of praise for the chefs he worked with in Beijing.

"The chefs here are very honest and open-minded. I am not here to show them recipes from France. I cook with my instincts. I don't follow recipes. This is an exchange. We learn from one another," he says.