Living the dream on frozen ice

But the smooth, micromanaged nature of the event today is the result of so much work over the years on the part of organisers. In 1965, not a single skier made it across the finish line; reins became entangled and the thoroughbred horses shot off in different directions. As a result, skijoring's equipment began to be standardised and coloured skis were made compulsory, so the horses could see clearly in the snow.

It's not just the safety of the horses that is paramount, but the people, too. Skiers (or "jockeys") undergo stringent physical tests before the race. White Turf has attracted riders as famous as Lester Piggott in the past, but the event is open to amateur participants should they wish to enter.

"We are very happy to have a constant demand of jockeys wanting to take part each year," says Staub. In recent years, results on three racing Sundays during February have been combined and the skier with the most points is crowned King of the Engadine. To up the sense of eliteness further still, there's even a White Turf Jockey Club and a small group of White Turf ambassadors.

The event may be somewhat under the radar, but it does draw some high-profile association. Two long-standing sponsors of the event are Credit Suisse and BMW, whose participation actively promotes the social aspect.
But while White Turf draws a niche group of jet-setters and partygoers – yes, there's a VIP section for guests of the sponsors – the event is open to the public and to holidaymakers in the Swiss region. To watch the racing events, a seat (the stands boast 2,500) costs as little as US$100 – and for such a once-in-a-lifetime experience, that seems a remarkable deal.

It's not all racing, either. For those looking for action off the ice, there are shows, art, exhibitions and food stalls. There's also the elegant 130,000sqm White Turf tent, which serves up the superlative lifestyle experience. In 2014, revellers could even take advantage of a pop-up submarine bar that surfaced from the lake, serving champagne, brandy, sake, maotai and other libations. But it's hard to believe one's spirits could need any lifting in such a jaw-dropping locationand with such a spectacle as White Turf.